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Datsun 240Z "BlueOvalZ"

Drivetrain:

Ford 289 which is very soon being replaced with a 383 (Not the Chevy, but the Ford 351W stroker version). Home-made headers, AFR 205 heads, and the typical go-fast internals. The engine is solidly mounted (along with transmission) into the chassis making is part of the chassis which greatly increased the chassis rigidity.

Transmission is a WC T-5 pulling to a Datsun R200 differential using Porsche 930 CV jointed half-shafts. Currently, at the rear wheels, the 289 dynos at 299 HP, and 260 lb/ft at 7200 RPM. It has a lot of RPM potential, but now I'm looking for more torque, and hence the reason for installing the 383. Hopefully, it will reach my design of mid 500 HP and torque fiqures at around 6500 RPM. The new heads, and almost 1" more stroke should get me close. 


Chassis:
The chassis is still basic Datsun equipment. The front crossmember has been moved forward 1.25" to increase the caster for an improved camber curve. This meant that the T/C rod had to be increased in length as well. The inner bushings have been replaced with spherical rod ends on the front, with fabrication just completed for replacing all eight bushing on the rear suspension with 3/4" spherical bearings. The rear uprights and mustache bar have been replaced with a single 1/4" aluminum plate that mounts the differential, suspension, and swaybar all on one piece. The rear bushings are held independently onto this plate, separated by a turnbuckle, to allow toe adjustment of the rear wheels. Spring rate is 225 F/260 R using coilover set-up and Koni shocks.
Wheels & Tires:

17 X 11 Billet Specialties wheels with 315/35R17 tires an all four corners (DOT set-up).


Body:
Body is a home-made fiberglass creation painted in a GM Tahoe blue w/ Wimbleton white stripes
Interior:

Fabricated out of fiberglass from a once fully gutted race interior.


1971 Datsun 240Z that became a divorce recovery project. After dropping the SBF engine into the car, I found that the high...

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WC T-5 Transmission

This is the close ratio transmission with the 2.95 1st gear, and .80 5th gear.

Hydraulic Throwout Bearing

I used a McLeod HTOB on this project. The quality is great, and I've never had a bit of trouble with it.

Hydraulic Throwout Bearing

The HTOB slips over the front bearing retainer and uses O-rings to keep it held in place.

Hydraulic Throwout Bearing

The HTOB installed within the bellhousing.

Transmission Mount

The transmission mount had to be fabricated out of 1" x 2" steel tubing and some 1" angle.

Transmission Mount

The transmission mount in place.

Driveshaft

The driveshaft is a Mustang shaft that was shortened.

Driveshaft adapter

In order to attach the Ford driveshaft to the Datsun properller shaft, I had to fabricate an adapter plate.

Driveshaft adapter

The adapter plate is made out of 1/2" aluminum plate, with 1 set of four holes drilled for the Ford pattern, and then another set of drilled and tapped holes for the Datsun pattern. The Datsun pattern then had 8mm flathead screws installed to act as studs.

Driveshaft adapter

The adapter in place with the Ford driveshaft and Datsun properller shaft.

Alternator

When I was done racing the car, and it was put on the street, I found I needed an alternator to charge the battery. To do this, I chose to drive it off the driveshaft. I used a Ford power steering pulley, which fits perfectly around the Ford driveshaft yoke.

Alternator

The power steering ( now the alternator) pulley was then sandwiched between the Ford driveshaft yoke, and the aluminum adapter plate.

Alternator

The view of the alternator as seen from the passenger side. This alternator sits directly behind the passenger seat (seat was removed in this photo)

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