March 22, 2011

Hello everyone my name is “Woodrow”, I’m a little tin woody, but I’m really made of steel. (tin woody is a nickname) I was made in Cleveland, Ohio in 1951, well part of me was, my body.
One day I got to ride on one of those great big transport carriers to a place called an assembly plant where my frame, engine, transmission and everything else was in Janesville, Wisconsin.
They put me on something called an assembly line that’s the place where they put me all together, they gave me a brand new coat of green paint which the men called Fathom Green #458, and other parts were made to look like real wood, and inside they trimmed me out in #202 imitation leather with a pig skin texture, and they gave me something called options like a push-button radio, fender mounted antenna, cigarette lighter,clock and a lot more nice things and when they were all done I looked so pretty, shiny and new, and then a man got inside me and turned my key and it started my engine and I thought I sounded pretty good if I do say so myself, and it felt so good, then the man drove me off the assembly line and outside of the building and right up the ramp of another great big transport carrier with a load of my friends and I was at the very front hanging over the truck driver, and as we drove down the road I felt so safe in fact I felt like I was king of the world, the driver took us to a place they call an automobile dealership where people would come and take us for test rides and kick our tires, and that hurts.
One day a man, woman, small boy and a little girl bought me and their name was Mr.& Mrs. Smith my original owners, and they took such good care of me always taking me to the car wash and cleaning me up and giving me wax jobs.

The Smith family kept me for many years and we used to take trips all the time once we went to a big hole in the ground the man called it “The Grand Canyon” I didn’t see what was so grand about it just a big hole with a lot of dirt.

But one day Mr. Smith came outside and said “Hi pal your going to a new home today” I didn’t quite know what that meant, but Mr. Smith kept waiting outside with me until another man was dropped off by a taxi cab and the men talked for a while and the new man gave Mr. Smith some money and the new man climbed inside started my engine and just before he drove away he told my Mr. Smith don’t worry I’ll take really good care of him but he didn’t, he broke his promise to the man and his family, I remember when I drove away the children were crying, and I was very sad.

The next day the mailman came to the house and handed my new owner his mail then said “Have a nice day Mr. Jones” we’ll he took me out of the garage and down to the car wash for a bath and wax job, he had me looking almost new again. We drove up and down the streets waving to everyone. He took me all over town showing me off to his neighbors, friends his doctor, the butcher and even Johnny the paperboy.
But that didn’t last long as I got older he stopped parking me in the garage, and in my place he put a little red sports car.

I would see the man coming and going everyday in his little red sports car as I sat out in the rain, sun and snow year after year, Wisconsin wasn’t very nice to me, there was salt all over the road in the winter and it was eating my body up, then one day the man sold me to Johnny the paperboy except Johnny was much older now and he didn’t use me for his paper route, the paperboy I’m mean Johnny turned me into a hot rod.

We’ll the life of a hot rod isn’t very glamorous I would stay out late and Johnny would let his friends sit all over me and scratch my paint, and Johnny would squeal and burn the rubber off my tires, he didn’t change my oil very often and my engine started to puff smoke out my tailpipe, and I was leaking oil everywhere and then one day Johnny put me next to his garage where I sat for over a year until one day a man came to Johnny’s house and inquired if I was for sale and Johnny said “For $150 bucks he’s all yours” so the new man bought me and I had another owner who wanted to drive me to his home in South Dakota.
We’ll it was a long trip to South Dakota for me, I was coughing and spitting a lot of smoke out my tailpipe even worse than before but I made the trip for the man but because Johnny didn’t take care of me my engine just stopped a block from the man’s house, the man was so mad that he got out slammed my door and walked home.

The next day a tow truck came to the man’s house and hooked me up and drove me away to his auto mechanic named Hank. Now Hank looked me all over plugging wires into me checking me with gauges putting me up in the air. All he kept doing was shaking his head and saying “This is Not Good” we’ll Hank went into his office and called my new owner and said “This will cost you $500 dollars for a New Engine” We’ll I was so happy because I was going to get a new engine, and then I could go on trips again.

Hank pushed me outside next to the garage and said “You’ll be safe here until your owner comes for you”, we’ll I sat outside for several days and finally one day a tow truck backed in front of me and hooked me up to his truck and drove me away, he took me way outside of town to a field with hundreds of old rusting cars and trucks and I said “What am I doing out here I’m suppose to get a new engine”, and then I saw my owner talking to a man named Junk Yard Jake and he gave my owner $75.00 for me and then he said “He’s all yours”, Junk Yard Jake turned to the tow truck driver and said “Drop him anywhere”.

By the looks of some of these old cars and trucks they look like they’ve been here a long time so I guess I wasn’t going to get my new engine after all.

The junk yard is a cold and scary place it’s where you go when nobody wants you, I guess this is where I’ll have to spend the rest of my life, we’ll at least I’m surrounded by all my new friends.

One day a tow truck brought an almost brand new car in to the junk yard but it was so smashed I couldn’t see what kind of car it was but I did notice he had a 2009 license tag on his rear plate, that means I have been sitting for thirty nine years, ever since 1970, and no one ever drove me again. I have been sitting in this cold wet field year after year for so long that my bottom has rusted away and a family of field mice and wasps were now living inside of me.
Well one day I heard some men come and they opened up my hood and I thought they were going to fix me up and drive me to a new home but alas all they did was take my head off and walk away.

So here I sit again, and I got pretty good at doing that, but the days came and went for many months until one day after the rain stopped and the sun started peaking through the silvery clouds, “And oh how the sun feels on my top” I said, then off
in the distance came a funny looking machine and it came closer and closer until it stopped right in front of me, I heard the man on the ground say “Hey Lou lift the front up with the forklift”and then Lou said “Hey Carl is that far enough” and Carl gave Lou a nod and Carl started putting old wheels and tires on me and then Carl said “We’ll old boy it looks like your going on a trip” “a Trip” I said I heard that word before every time my owner Mr. Smith would take me out driving, but I knew I couldn’t drive anymore because those men took parts off my engine along time ago.

We’ll the night sky started to darken and I heard Lou say “Come on Carl it’s getting to dark, lets go” so they both left and a couple of weeks went by and I thought those men changed their minds and didn’t want me anymore, but then I heard a noise coming over the hill, it was Lou and Carl and there coming back for me, they were driving a truck and towing a trailer, they stopped near by hooked a cable around my bumper and started pulling me up on the trailer, then Carl said “Hey old boy your going to a new home in California”, I was so happy because I remember a sign that read “Welcome To California” once when my Mr. & Mrs. Smith and the children took me on a trip, I remember it was so warm and no rain, “Yipee”, I said I’m going to love California, and all of sudden I came to a screeching halt and I was surrounded by buildings and people and cars and I was so confused, this didn’t look like California, our trip wasn’t long enough and right then the ground started to shake and the light was turning dark and I was getting scared then I saw what was causing it, It was another great big beautiful transport carrier coming to take me to California, to my new home.
Oh I’m the happiest li’l tin woody in the world.
gene w. newton
p.s. parts of this story are based on real events….....to be cont’d

Orange, CA - The Garage Classics and Collectibles and Don Presley Auction are hosting their first Collector Car Auction featuring Classic Cars, Hot Rods, Exotics and Luxury vehicles on March 24, 2012, 10:00am – 7:00pm, at the gallery 1141 West Katella Ave. in Orange, California. 

Are you considering selling your vehicle or purchasing your dream car? Consider the value and presence of an auction with The Garage Classics and Collectibles’ Collector Car Auction. Receive exclusive bargains, with low entry fees and minimal commissions. Choose from hot rods, pickups, muscle cars, classic cars, customs, European exotics and luxury cars.

To consign your vehicles please pre-register at www.TheGarageCC.com. Entry fees are non refundable at the following rates: $350.00 with reserve, $250.00 no-reserve, and $375.00 prime-time. Commissions are set at 6% for reserve vehicles and 5% for no-reserve vehicles.

Visit www.TheGarageCC.com or call Gary at 949-307-5894 for more details!

      OK wanted to make a clarification. I had mentioned in my previous blog an upcoming event in PA coming up in March. The show that I'm refering to is the 2nd annual NorthEast Rod & Custom Car Show on March 23rd-25th. The correction is it is at the Greater Philadelphia Expo Center ( not Philadelphia Convention Center ) This is located off of Rte 422 just outside King of Prussia PA. 

      sorry for the info snaffu

         Well it was another AWESOME show at Motorama Events 2012 in Harrisburg, PA. Public attendanThe cars were another bar higherce was 37000, not to shabby. This year showed several return competetors and some new ones. And as all car shows I made some new friends. This year set up was a little different where groupings were consistent all the tuners had a group and the top show cars with major displays. This year in conjunction with East Coast Indoor Nationals, Dec 1-2, 2012 in Timonium MD.  and North East Nationals in Oaks PA in March they have added a new award "The Triple Crown " One Person who attends all three shows and is picked by the sponsors, will recieve this recognition and will recieve a beautiful embroidered jacket and all the acolades associated with it.

          If you live in the tri state area come out to the Northeast Nationals sponsored by FullHouseMotorsports. It will be held in Oaks, PA at the Philadelphia Convention Center on March 23-25 2012.

          If you have never been to Motorama check out this You Tube Link and read up at Motorama Events 2012.

You Tube Link   http://youtu.be/sU2gKO1z03Q

So Save EM' don't Crush EM'!

I am sure there are plenty of times in a girls life when she hears a her car making a funny noise so she pulls it into a garage for repairs.  Sure, that is what I did last weekend, but unlike most gals I was actually the one doing the diagnosis and repairs in the garage myself!  I am Becky Sue and this a story of another day in the life of a hot rod pinup such as myself.

So I was cruising down the road on my way to work last week and I heard my baby making a different sound.  Something was definitely not right.  She was trying to tell me something, but what was it?  This was a new noise for me.  She began to speak up around 30-40 miles an hour.  I listened closely and I was able to determine that it was coming from the passenger rear wheel.  I pulled off did a visual inspection and checked the tire pressure.  All was well.   

Now I have replaced the bearings in the front end of the Comet when it had it’s original drums.  As I recalled the noise of a bearing going out is kind of like rolling a metal ball in sand.  This didn’t sound like that so I wasn’t quite sure what it was but at least I knew where my problem was coming from.

As I drove home from work I was now hearing a little bit of a screechy squeal and my rear end began locking up on me as if I were depressing the brakes while driving down the road!  Very bizarre!  Luckily I had the next day off, so I knew I would be able to repair her.

That night I reviewed my owner’s manual focusing on the rear suspension, drive-line, axle section.  I wanted to familiarize myself with what I would be working with before I just started taking things apart.  This is a crucial step to automotive success!  Always read the repair manual.

The next afternoon I took a tire iron to the to the problem wheel.  After I loosed the lug nuts I jacked up the car from the pumpkin and placed her on jack stands (making sure to chalk the front tires) and wedged out the massive rear tire.  I had to dig a little deeper to see my problem.  After removing four bolts and yanking the axle free, I was able to pull the axle out and take a good look at the bearings. Right away I could see how mangled they were. I knew they would need to be replaced so I took my axle down to the friendly fellas at Tops Auto, in Anaheim, CA and they were able to press me a new set of bearings within the hour.

After that it was just a matter of reassembling my rear end.  Plenty of jokes were made as I lubed the tip, inserted the axle shaft, and began pushing deeper and deeper! Once it was in place I bolted everything back together and was burning out into the sunset!
Girls, you can do it!  Don’t be afraid to get in the garage and get greasy!  With a little bit of education and a lot of determination you too can be like Becky Sue! ;)

(To see the full album of photos from this wrench day visit my Facebook page!) 

    I love the fact that my 1961 Comet was all original.  I have the original window sticker and bill of sale for the car with all of the options picked out in 1960!  The in-line six 170 cc Thrift Power motor that was in the car was a $35.00 upgrade.  It may have been an upgrade in power in 1961 but that 170 was not cutting it for me in today’s day and age! Don't get me wrong, the car would get up to freeway speeds but it just wasn't so quick to merge into traffic.  My theory is, "life is too short to drive slow".  My boyfriend, Matt at the Department of Customz,  shares this mentality and had had told me that I could put the 302 from his model T into my Comet if and when my motor died.
 
     Well as fate would have it, my Gita's 170 ceased to exist about a week after the Huffarama event in December 2010.  For about three weeks prior the car had seemed to just “not be running well”.  While trying to pinpoint the problem I did a tune up, changing the oil and the spark plugs.  It kept loading up at red lights so I changed my carburetor.  It still had issues.  After I changed my points the car seemed to have a dramatic improvement but then on that early December morning I went to start my car up to go to work and...THUNK... I threw a rod!!!

     That year Santa brought me just what I wanted!  On Christmas I had not only a 302 with Mega 270 Isky Racing Cams but also a TransDapt C4 transmission with a manual valve body under the Christmas tree! (Thank you Santa Baby! aka Matt!)  I will admit part of me was sad to see the 6 go just because I had gotten to know the motor over the past two years, but then I reminded myself about how I hated that motor when trying to merge into freeway traffic! Out with the old! In with the new!

The photo above is of me hooking the in-line 6 onto the engine hoist. Shortly after this I nervously hooked the 302 with the C4 attached to it and guided her across the shop and over the top of the gaping hole where my engine used to be!

  Next I had to climb up on top of the car and do the splits on the cowl carefully making sure not to put too much pressure on my windshield. As Matt Means and an apprentice at the Department of Customz lowered the motor in I began walking up the transmission using my body weight to push it down and under. For a minute there I thought I was going to get sucked in! I hear that motor swaps take a while, but with Dept. of Customz professional help we were able to do it in just one day
    
    This car is my daily driver so I had to make quick work of this motor swap and upgrade things like suspension as I went along. These performance parts may have fit right into my little Comet but she wasn’t built for such power so there are MANY items that need to be modified or replaced along the way.

Since the motor swap in December of last year I have installed a new Ford 8 inch rear end with posi traction, converting to five lug and installing new wheels and tires.  I swamped the old water pump for an aluminum Edelbrock one. In March I finally beefed up the front suspension, with a 65 Mustang front end and Grenada disk brakes. There will be plenty more performance upgrades and minor repairs to read about down the road so stay tuned and watch this Comet get better and better than ever before! 

The blog:

http://topdeadcenter-bpate.blogspot.com/2011/01/top-dead-center.html?spref=fb

 TOP DEAD CENTER MAGAZINE:

http://issuu.com/patephotography/docs/tdc_issue_1

Okay, I seem to be all over the place but here are some of the places you can keep up with me:

The place that I post most often is over at my Garage Blog - http://blog.bubbasgarage.com

My main website for the Garage is http://www.bubbasgarage.com

Want to purchase a photo? Contact me here - http://photos.bgcustoms.biz

How about a t-shirt? http://www.zazzle.com/BGCustoms?rf=238672400291244228

30 June 2011 

World class Street Rods, are finally here, thanks to entrepreneur-pioneer Hradyesh. He launched India’s first custom-built street Rod, “Morris Street”, in New Delhi - India this afternoon 

Unveiling his creation, the trend-setting entrepreneur said: “For the first time ever, you can drive a car that reflects your personality, attitude and identity. A Street Rod commands jaw-dropping awe and respect from everyone on or off the road—as much for its inviting curves and finish as for the awesome power it packs beneath the hood.”

Passionate automobile enthusiast, Hradyesh, 29, is set to trailblaze through the Indian specialty super-luxury car world as the pioneering mastermind who brought the globally cherished Street Rods to India. According to Hradyesh, the launch of Morris Street underscores his motto: “Dream first to realise your dream.”

visit at www.Hradyesh.com

follow me on twitter at https://twitter.com/Hradyesh 

Official Facebook Page http://www.facebook.com/pages/Hradyesh/220418561326082?sk=app_190322544333196 

Youtube videos http://www.youtube.com/user/Hradyeshcars

  Logically is to check out the engine, now that I've cleaned out everything else. What a Concept! From the looks of things this hasn't happened in this decade. After2 sessions on de-gunk -ifying I discovered 2 loose bell housing bolts, 1 missisng bolt and a broken oil filler cap.

  What a drag! I decided tonot change the oil untill I made those repairs.

So I've never, in the 45+ years on this planet, really been a 'Car Guy'. I work a full time job so that I can do stuff that I like to do ( Bicycles, guns, home brewing, grilling, Irish folk music) and then if I need to have my rig worked on, I gladly keep my mechanic employed. He's a good guy, runs an honest business and is always (and I've done my homework) on target with prices. 

  Then some guy ( On the Freakbike militia.com boards) posted pics of the auto-rama in Detroit (?). Hmmm. Sparks started igniting in my itty - bitty little military mind!

  I'm not sure what my style is. Something along the lines of Rat Rod, but I'm not diggin' the red hub caps. Maybe hot rod, but I can barely do a tune up. I don't know what a HAMB is, and I'm tall enough that I don't want to lower/ chop it. Is 'red neck' a style?

   It seems like a step in a new direction that could improve my bike building skills, and possibly be a source of further bonding with my son. I bought this truck from a fella that's in the same band as he is. It came with enough garbage to fill my ( chest - high) trash bin, and crappy tires.

   At this point, I'm happy to have gotten the outside scrubbed clean so that I can assess what needs to be done in the way of body work. Next I'll clean the engine compartment of it's oil deposits and see what I need to do to make Harold go fast enough to drive on the highway.

   Feel free to leave comments, it's how I learn stuff!

I only wish I had the tools and space to do the work on this truck myself.  Unfortunately, I have neither.  I inherited this truck from my little brother who passed away in 1990.  There was a big push to rebuild the truck after that.  Parts were ordered from Golden State Pickup in Cali, the truck was disassembled and it ended up sitting out in the AZ sun for years.  It even went through a couple of different car covers in all that time.  Eventually it started getting in the way where it was sitting so it kept being hidden further and further behind things.

I took over the truck in 2007.  It made it down to Arizona Street Rods under the care of Rodman Palmer where it received its Heidts IFS, 4 link and rack & pinion.  They cleaned up the frame, boxed it up a little and made a gas tank for it that sat between the rails.  The Wilwood rotors & brakes were added and the entire body was media blasted and primered with Squeegee's yellow.

The economy flipped and I knew a little patience would go a long way if I just waited.  Back to the garage it went for 3 years.  Az Street Rods burned in '10 and I knew it was time to look for someone to finish it up.  Work picked back up and the dollars became available to move forward once again.

Dean Livermore at Hot Rods by Dean was my go to guy.  He had already used his talents on other family rides.  A spot in his busy shop opened up the beginning of 2011 and now here we are in the spring finally seeing the truck coming together.

Going for a stock interior look, but of course the guys at HRBD have some great ideas to blend that look with functionality.

Growing up the grandson of a great Chevy mechanic makes me proud to have the ability to make this ride something my little bro would be proud to see.  I know he's watching over the build.   I won't let you down CJS.

Got approved for Disability. Only problem is the first check won't arrive until July 1st... 

 On Valentine's Day, I got Dreamcatcher out and blew off the cobwebs. It was a thrill to get it out on the road and just cruise. Had a wee bit of trouble getting it started... the battery was really weak, but once I got it running, she purred like a kitten... OK maybe not like a kitten...  She is a might rougher than that. But she sounded right as rain...  God, I love to sit behind the wheel and just ride...

nothing like having to replace a flywheel bc a autozone starter went haywire and ate ur ring gear up... i dont make tons of money so unfortantly autozone starters are what i can afford and well this is what i get b/c of that ... ugh

so tomorrow i have to get the ol girl into the garage and spend my saturday ripping it apart ... wish it would have happend in the summer brrr its cold out

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjkaqptgS54

http://www.youtube.com/user/expertwelding#p/u/1/E4TdumgeK64

I lost my brother back on June 24th and my mom 7 months to the day before him. I sort of just stopped doing anything with the Mustang or Cruise-ins or anything. They say time heals all wounds, but I don't think that is true.

Since I got the Mustang, before he passed we spoke damn near every day, usually about the Mustang or his 51 Ford he had purchased and was in the process of making an old time hot rod out of it.

When he passed I just sort of stopped. Time didn't stop, However my "Want to" did. I'm still not sure what is going to happen in the future. My health ain't the greatest, but I think I'm going to start playing again. I just bought new shoes for my baby, they should be here by the end of the week and then we'll just have to see what happens.

Besides the shoes, there are allot of things I need to do, little things like putting the sensor in the transmission for the speedometer, like hooking up the tach, like putting the kick panels on the doors and installing the new locks in the doors and a bunch of other little things. Maybe the tires will get me off my lazy ass and start doing what I love to do...

I love you Mom & Mike, You and Mom are truely missed.

From my blog: http://jackazphotography.blogspot.com/2010/08/classic-289.html . 

Just back in town from Las Vegas for a big family wedding gig. A week there is like a lifetime. It never shuts down.
Anyway, a quick story of the club and quickie on the run.
First off,  our club, Street Rods Unltd. So. Cal., which I'm President, was originally formed in 1972 for some car enthusiasts to get together, hang out, bench race and tell tall stories. More of car social club. We seem to always participate in other events, so our VP, Pat Croan came up with the idea to have a club run/cruise. Members only. We brought it up to the club and we all agreed. Pat lives in Temecula, Calif. so it was a natural for him to set up a wine tasting run/cruise. We even scheduled our meeting at the first stop at Leonesse Cellars+.,Then it was off for lunch at a gourmet hot dog shop. Thornton Wineries was our second stop and a third stop, Ponte Winery, just for good reason. We ended the day at his house for pot luck and carne asada dinner.

Pictures in my Gallery under 1st Annual Wine Run

An Exhaust System is not just about noise! Another misconception about Exhaust Systems is "Bigger is Better!" With so many exhaust manufactures out there, where do you start? After reading this hopefully you'll have a better understanding and appreciation for exhaust systems.  I got started at a young age, actually picked up my first torch when i was around 9 or 10. My old man got me into it; my pops started in 1969. So when i say I have experience, believe me, "I have experience!" Everything from splitting inline 6's, lake pipes, bellflowers, flame throwing kits, electric cut outs, glass packs, custom headers, "X" and "H" pipes.  http://www.magnaflow.com/05news/magazine/htr.asp 

Lets start with the basics. An Exhaust is exactly what it says. EXHAUST- To empty by drawing out the contents. In this case we're referring to the pressure created in the cylinders. With this being stated maybe you can realize why pipe diameter is such an important part of any exhaust system. These are the recommendations according to Flowmaster Technologies.

Notice that I said "recommendations." A good example would be on some of your 30's and 40's vehicles where its necessary to run the exhaust through the supplied holes in the frame. This is where a qualified exhaust builder/installer can be of some assistance.

I want to share a project in which I've fabricated a fairly economic alternative to the hugely expensive aftermarket ITB hardware for the LS series motors.

Economic aftermarket ITB options for this motor will run about $3600 and up for hardware alone (does not include electronic controls) and is usually designed for under-hood clearances (short, or laid on their sides). So I looked for a cheap alternative that would provide the traditional upright-runner appearance (for my specific application).

The parts I started with are:

Intake Manifold - Edelbrock Pro-Flow XT intake manifold. This is an 8-runner common plenum intake that is very tall and resembles an EFI version of a tunnel ram. Below is a couple of photos of the intake on the motor. The lower photo is a concept drawing of what I envision when this project is finished.

ITBs - Chrysler LHS throttle bodies. The 3.5L motor has two 48mm throttle bodies manufactured by Holley that are fairly straight-forward in that they lack most of the "garbage" that a typical manufacturer's throttle body contains. The box of throttle bodies bellow cost about $200 at the local pick-n-pull.

Materials to Put it All Together - various aluminum plates, screws, bolts, shaft couplers, etc.

Cost Comparison - With ITBs mounted, connected, and on the motor (no linkage thus far, total cost is less that $800 as compared to $2600 for comparable aftermarket set-up.

Let's get started!

First thing that had to be done was to modify the cheaper $400 Edelbrock intake (brand new, so this took some courage to put it on the table saw and start cutting it into pieces) to accept ITBs. This was done by cutting the intake in half through the center of the plenum. This way, all the runners were still rigidly held in place both at the base and at the top of the runners: 

Then I cut a wedge out of each runner near the base so as to make the runners more vertical and simultaniously separate the left and right banks from each other:

Once the banks were straightened out, they were welded up and the top was then cut off the runners exposing each individual runner:

Next a top mounting plate was welded over each runner. The plate then allows an adapter plate (for any variety of Weber based, or ITB hardware to be mounted) to be bolted onto the left/right banks of runners:

The Adapter plate had to be machined (drill press and some careful measurements) to transition the round ITB ports to the semi-rectangular LS1 intake ports. This was 3/4" aluminum plate that had the OEM Chrysler throttle body studs screwed into the plate to help index/align each ITB to their respective holes:

The ITB adapter plate is then bolted onto the runner banks:

Shaft couplers are used to connect the individual ITBs. These came from McMaster-Carr. The linkage to active the shafts was fabricated for a previous Weber 48 IDA set-up, but never used:

Tuning stacks are then fabricated to provide performance as well as aesthetic improvements in order for this induction system resemble what was used in the original M8B McLaren CanAm car:

Well, after a month of down time I finally got my ported lower  Cobra intake back (thanks Tom Moss!).  This time I put the right intake gaskets on - the gaskets I used when assembling the motor were .25" too tall for the ports but I was in a hurry so I used them. 

I also upgraded to a 75mm MAF from the stock 50mm piece, and swapped out the stock 60mm throttle body for a 65mm Explorer unit.  Swapped out the 19lb injectors for 30lb injectors while I was at it.

After working through a few bugs - bad throttle position sensor and an injector connector that had popped off - I got to rip on it a little last night.  I was happy to see that it picked up a substantial amount of power.  It feels 25% stronger!

The 331 was breathing through a straw with the stock 50mm MAF and 60mm TB.  It feels great to have it back together and running to its potential finally!

01/16/10 Was the first night I took The Ghost Ship to this show. What have I been missing? What An event, Free and just as good as a show you would pay to get into or show. Anyone is sure to find thier favorite car or maker. Friendly people and great cars and bikes. I go there late cause I was watching the game. We lost bad. I should have just went to the show. I parked where I could and my regret is not being around more Muscle cars. Some how at every show a  different green Chevelle will always end up close to me, Wierd!!!!

So there's been a few developments..... As I've torn farther into the car, I keep finding stuff that's going to take a lot of time and money to fix. At least to repair to my "vision". I'm trying to think logically about this whole thing and the reality is that if I want to see this thing up and running any time soon, I should go forward with the bare bones gasser idea and then down the road if I feel like it, transform it from there once I have honed my sheet metal skills a little better and have all the proper equipment for the undertaking.

So I stuffed the straight axle under her. Took out the lowering block from the rear. Looks pretty decent. Stance is a bit off, but that will be fixed once I have some slicks on the rear and skinnys on the front.

I've been working on getting the floorboards into shape and replacing the firewall. That part is going slow.

Picked up the motor I'm going to use. It's a 1963 Pontiac 389 bored .060 over to 400ci. I got lucky and found it on CL. It was advertised as rebuilt, but I tore it down anyway to check and so I could re-assemble it my way. What I found inside was: new pistons, a new lunati Bracket master II cam, double-roller timing chain, new melling oil pump, New connecting rod hardware, and a few other nice little things.

 I mocked up the engine with the 6x2 and magneto I plan to use. I posted some pics.

I'm going to try to adapt a set of SBC fenderwell headers to Pontiac flanges. We'll see how it goes. The middle port might mess things up.

Still trying to decide on trans. Thinking maybe a TH-400 with a 2800-3200stall converter.

Nov 2009 - Recently everything has gone into overdrive and there have been more late nights than I care to remember. The result of this, apart from extreme tiredness, is the delivery of our first batch of very limited edition T shirts. We've been pushing the message of gasoline and wide open throttle from various sofas via this website for a while but now (finally), YOU can push this message further via the medium that is T shirts. Just over a week ago we were at the print studio where the first proto's and then subsequent print run for the initial 4 Supercharged T shirts happened. Some other bits of the Supercharged jigsaw will also come together over the next few days. You can browse the designs on our T shirt page or go directly to our store located at www.superchargedinc.bigcartel.com where you can buy them NOW! The pics above and below show 2 of the designs folded and presented with the Supercharged box that they come supplied in.

Nov 2009 - We've primed the jets, switched on the ignition and finally fired up the print run for those first T shirts we've been waiting for so long. Up at the print studio watching the screen printing process and choosing the final print techniques and colours was cool. Seeing the first pass of the squeegie and the black ink pass through the screen and create that first T shirt gave a great feeling. Be sure to check out the pictures of the print run on our flickr site here.

Sept 2009 - Headed out to Sacramento for Bugorama #64. Hired a Mustang and drove from San Francisco over the Golden Gate Bridge and on to watch some of the fastest VW racing I've seen, and some sweet show cars into the bargain with it. Not to mention picking up some bits and pieces from the swap meet. Add to that meeting an icon ("Muffler Mike", thanks for letting me sit in the hot seat!), plus just generally soaking up the atmosphere on a hot sunny Sacramento Sunday, and you have the mixture for an amazing event. So, Bugorama #64, check out the pictures in the VISITORS PARKING LOT.

April 2009 - Well after messing about with some vector based illustration of the Rat Patrol Beetle, it seemed only right to have a look at what it might look like as a Tee Print. Here's the link...decide for yourself. This Volksrod just looks good on anything.

You hafta go take a look at the Volksrods website and check out this awesome Rod for yourselves, here... www.volksrods.com

April 2009 - I'm itching to see our first T shirts. Desperate to hang the first print. But still we're not quite there. What I can say is we have a bag full of neck labels now ;-) and I just finished the last of the first 4 Tee prints. Click on this to go and see it and the other 3. Still have to decide on colours. If you have any preferences, do us a favour and tell us!

This design will also be available as a print. Click on this icon to go and see it and the other works in progress...

Mar 2009 - Spent an afternoon playing with the Rat Patrol design. Now with a striking red sky and the correct Rat Fink sheriffs badge side graphic. Take a look, just click on the image here...

Jan 2009 - Happy New Year!! (Craig). Well another year begins, and this year we look forward to seeing some of the ideas behind Supercharged come to life. Slowly slowly (oh so slowly) things continue to go on behind the scenes, but just to keep it fresh, check out the new Rat Patrol print art work. An awesome custom beetle, I just had to play with an illustration.

Dec 2008 - Happy Christmas. Not in time for Christmas, but in time for the New Year are the first 3 Supercharged T shirts. They are off to the screen printers and should be ready to ship late Jan.

Nov 2008 - SuperchargedInc Flickr page. More pictures hosted on our Flickr site. Flickr Here

A friend did this Photoshopping of my studebaker over another friend's gasser. It's kind of cool. But I'm still not sure if gasser is the right direction to go.

<img src="http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/hotrodderguy/JonsStude.jpg">

I already have teh straight axle, so it would be pretty pointless to not at least put it under there and see what it would look like, but the more I look at it, the more I think it may need to be a taildragger.

The Cole Foster Ford coupe that he did for Hammet is a nice inspiration, also getting a lot of inspiration from looking at lincoln zephers. Trying my best to find other good examples of taildraggers made of this era.

I'm also still trying to sell the '61 pontiac. Eventually I'd like to find another 1955-1956 Pontiac 2dr as a project. I had one a few years ago that I sold when cash was tight. I regret it now. Have some fresh ideas and some cool motor stuff that would be perfect for such a project.

Joel Young of Phoenix, AZ set a new world record of 201.700 mph driving a Model T powered Streamliner in class Vintage 4 cylinder Flathead engines under 220 cu. In. (Blown Fuel Streamliner) at the Bonneville Salt Flat, Speed Week on August 16th, 2010

Summary:

Saturday afternoon was tech inspection and he car went through with no issues.

Sunday morning we made the first run but Joel was forced to abort the run due to a loose timing sensor. The sensor was replaced and the car was readied for another run. Joel’s SCTA driver license required him to stay below 200 mph until signed off for his 200 mph license, the engine was detuned and second run resulted in a speed of 198.111 mph. Because this speed was fast enough to break the record, we decided to go ahead and put the car in impound for the night and make the backup run on Monday morning. This run resulted in a speed of 205.290 mph for an average speed for the two runs of 201.700 mph, a new record and good enough to get Joel a “Red Hat” and induction into the 200 MPH Club. We then moved the car to tech and pulled the head to make it an official record. Other than the sensor problem, the car performed flawlessly and the goal was exceeded with minimal effort at the event.

Ever wonder why the sports stars get so much action? It’s because they get immortalized with a FATHEAD!  You know the life size posters that are all the rage.  Well, now you to can get in the game. Immortalize the hard work that you put into your pride and joy!  RoomRods.com produces life size removable, reusable, scratch resistant Fathead type prints of your Hot Rod!  Just log on and upload a 3 mega-pixels or better picture of your ride, choose the size you want and check-out.

Rick

Supercharged Artwork to Supercharge Your Room  

The brakes are making me mad, nothing seems to be working right. First, I had problems with my front disk brakes hoses. Next, I could not stop it from leaking then, I broke a fitting off in the residual valve. Now, I am waiting on a package from speedway. But, luckily I have other things to do on the car.  

 Sorry, just needed to vent.

Stop by the Egge Machine Company booth K-16 in the canopies at 2pm on Saturday and meet Hot Rodder Melinda Miles for a FREE autographed "Parts with Appeal" poster!

Can't make it to the signing? Stop by our booth anytime say hi and ask Sam for a free gift for our MyRideIsMe.com friends.

Can't make it to the show? Visit our website at www.EGGE.com to learn more about the remaining cast piston manufacturer in the US. We have pistons, and valves manufactured here in Southern California and a variety of other restoration and performance parts for your vintage and nostalgic domestic motor.

Santa Fe Springs, CA, Monday June 1, 2009

Egge Machine and Speed Shop is celebrating 1000 work-days of no work loss due to accidents. That's over FOUR YEARS of an accident free workplace! The safety team at Egge Machine and Speed Shop is proud of their new benchmark and attributes the success to each of the employees who have paid attention to their work surroundings and maintained a clean and healthy work environment. The Egge Safety Program has regular safety meetings with training videos and discussions, CPR Training programs, safety notices, signage, and even collector trading cards.

"This is a great accomplishment. With the manufacturing facility we have here, and the type of work that is performed we are well above standard in this industry." Says Ernie Silvers, CEO. "I am very proud of our employees and their commitment to safety."

You can learn more about the 94 year old Egge Machine Company at their website: www.EGGE.com. Since 1915, Egge Machine Company has been supplying the automotive industry with quality engine parts and services for then modern, and now vintage automobiles. 800-866-3443

We are proud to announce a new venture that creates an alliance between TWO of our Sponsors. Stefano Bimbi of Nickey Chicago and Bill Jelinek of Route 66 Motorsports have joined forces to build the ultimate Pro Touring Camaro; the “Nickey Camaro Pro Touring g-Machine”.

Job #1 will start with a wild Yellow 1969 Camaro. Stefano and Bill, along with their teams of craftsman, will create the latest chapter of Nickey history with this new release. Using the old school Nickey formula, they will utilize the latest in state of the art components to create a first generation Camaro that is made to not only look good, but to handle better then any one would have dreamed back in 69.

“We are excited to join forces with the Nickey team”, stated Jelinek. “This adds an entirely new dimension to the Nickey Chicago lineup, and we are proud to be able to be a part of the team,” Bimbi stated.

Expect to find the signature stinger style hood scoop, Nickey embroidered seats, a unique graphics package and a high tech drive train and a much modified suspension setup. Offered in Stage 1, Stage II and Stage III configurations, Nickey Chicago and Route 66 Motorsports are geared up to create the car of your dreams.

Stay tuned for future updates on this new venture and be sure to allow plenty of time to view all of the beautiful cars from Nickey Chicago and Route 66 Motorsports at the Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals November 21-22, 2009.

Looking for a fun and expansive collection of obsolete engine parts and nostalgia? Visit Egge.com and find new features to their website. With the development help of eTool Developers the Egge website features a quick fun survey, a downloadable PDF of their catalog, enhanced Egge Tech section, a Community section with photos and stories of Egge Employee Enthusiasts and Customers Cars, Egge’s 94 year history, New Products, Garage Sale items, merchandise, and e-Newsletter subscription.

Visit today, sign-up for their EggE-Newsletter and get the latest announcements and specials only available to subscribers!

www.EGGE.com

Roomrods.com is proud to announce our annual Father’s Day Event.

In celebration of our fathers, roomrods.com is having a sale on the coolest hot rod wall art anywhere.  Please join us in honoring the men that introduced us to this lifestyle.  Or if you are a father like me, TREAT YOURSELF!  These are the lowest prices we have ever offered and they are only available through Father’s Day. Order now to get the coolest thing you will ever put on your wall!

Log on today at www.roomrods.com and check them out for yourself. Custom personalized cut-out wall posters of your hot rod.  UP to 7 Feet Long!

We will see you there!

Sincerely,

Team Roomrods.com

SUPERCHARGED ARTWORK TO SUPERCHARGE YOUR ROOM!

Check out our site for additional build pics...

www.CleanCutCreations.com

Dear Welder Series…

Should be receiving my 60″ crossmember today.
I was reviewing some measurements based on the video for the installation.
I’m trying to keep close to the ride height I currently have. The current spindle height with the tire is 14″. The top of the frame is 21″ and 17″ at the bottom.
My question is, what’s the max delta between the fame measurement and the top hat spring enclosure before I run out of material on the top hat to weld and clearance for the upper control arm bolts.

I hope that was clear.
Thanks,
Stephen

This is a good question, Stephen.  It is important to consider these things before cutting, as you are doing…

The maximum frame height (top of the frame) to clear the rear of the upper control arm is spindle height (14″ in your case) plus 4-3/4″;  i.e. 18-3/4″.  This will be the vertical height from the ground to the top of the frame at a point 5-1/2″ back from the spindle center line.  Aftermarket arms are often smaller at the bushing than stock arms but you probably won’t be able to go much more than 5″ instead of the 4-3/4 noted above.  To solve this upper arm/frame rail interference issue, notch the top of the frame rail.  In your case, you might want to notch the top and add to the bottom, because of the amount removed (about 2″ of the 4″ frame rail).  Add to the bottom first to make the rail stronger, then cut down from the top.  After the frame rail gets notched and boxed (and/or the bottom gets material added) these new surfaces become the top and bottom reference surfaces for the tower and crossmember notches.

Your question was very clear (I think)… I hope this answer is clear.  Let me know if, after reviewing the sheets included with the kit, you want to talk again.

Thanks for bringing up a good point.

Paul Horton

Grant Schwartz (Schwartz Welding) was installing a Ford 8.8 rear end from a Fox bodied Mustang in a frame so, naturally, he perused the Welder Series catalog (click to get a copy) for ideas.  After deciding on parts LS204 and LS208 from our LS1 motor mount kit, he trimmed, notched, and welded them to the end of a bar.  Now he has a clean, strong triangulated four link using the original mounts on the rear end!

Dear Welder Series…

Hello:
Can you tell me if the part number LS103 will work to adapt a LS1 engine to fit the standard motor mounts for a 1972 Chevelle?

Thanks!
John

John, LS150 is the kit to use for your Chevelle.  Use Energy Suspension #3.1114 insulators.  These insulators have a reinforcing rib on the engine side.  The slot in the adapter plate is clearance for this rib.  Notice that the top of the slot in the LS104 adapter plate is higher than the slot in the LS150 plate.  The rib in the GM stock rubber insulator goes higher than the Energy Suspension (ES) rib.  The ES rib is shorter so the flat head Allen bolt can be used to hold the plate to the engine block.  The stock GM rubber insulators do not work with the LS150 (and LS166) kits.

LS103 is used in the LS104 kit.  This kit is for custom-built frames that don’t have any frame mounts installed.  Frame mounts #C005 can be used to complete the installation in, for example, a ‘32 Ford.

I hope this helps you get the right mounts for your car.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…

Wondering if your welder mustang 11 kit can be made to fit in a 1980 f-100 pickup. Want to lower this truck but it appears nobody make a kit to do so. this is why I’m asking it seems my only hope would be put more of car type front end under it. thanks for any help

Thanks for asking about Welder Series parts, Joseph.  The widest MII crossmember we make is about 60″ track width.  This is the distance from the wheel mounting face of one rotor to the other.  Will this be wide enough for your project?

The coil spring mounts for the Twin I-Beam will have to come off.

How wide apart are your frame rails (inside & outside dimensions)?

Can you give me an idea of  the ride height dimensions from the ground to the bottom and to the top of the frame?

I’ll get back to you after I do some work with your reply.

Thanks.

Paul Horton

Welder Series’ parts are being used in lots of different ways (see index at right for tech ideas shared). If you have digital pictures of how you used our parts, please email them to us. We will put a credit on your account (against future purchases – the credit has no redeemable cash value) of $5.00 for each picture that we use on our website and/or in our catalog. (Note that we might not use all pictures sent.) Please send pictures in .jpg format. Sending the picture gives us the right to use it.

In your cover email, tell us if we can use your name in the Tech Sharing text around your picture(s). We won’t give out your email address or any other personal info.

Tech Sharing is meant to inspire your imagination. Exact measurements will seldom be given because we build hot rods, not production line cars. Tech Sharing is not to be taken as an endorsement of the application. You should decide that for yourself.

We hope you enjoy seeing what others have done and that you will take advantage of this offer.

Paul Horton
President
Big Block Chev Alternator Mount

Wes Bradburn is building a ‘40 Willys with a big block Chev/long water pump and wanted to mount the alternator low on the passenger side. Wes said in his email: “This took me less than 10 min. to lay out and the entire mod was less then 45 min.”

Wes got the following Welder Series parts:
Alternator mount tensioner #23822
Alternator mount main plate #238211S
Gusset #238213
Alternator support plate #238212

Wes' BBC Alternator Bracket

I came across these scans tonight and thought it would be fun to post them, just for you to see some of what the family’s been up to for the past 30+ years.

One of “the twins”, a pair of trick hiboy roadsters built in the 80’s by Paul Horton and Lloyd Stewart. This ‘32 is still seen at Louisville.

Paul & Dorothy Horton with me in the ‘29 in the mid 80’s.

The same ‘29 on hand formed 2×4 rails matching the contour of the body. This car had an unfortunate end in a cemetery after being T-boned during a poker run. You can call it luck if you must, but for some reason my brother and I (who ALWAYS rode in the rumble seat) asked to ride in a ‘46 sedan with friends. After the accident, the battery (strapped down in the floor of the rumble seat) was found way down the road. I don’t call it luck.

A ‘23 T Bucket that kind of started the whole parts business. This car was built in a Montreal garage by Paul and Dorothy Horton. There are tonnes of trick parts on this car!

The current (well, it hasn’t been on the road in three years) ‘40 Sedan is the car I remember traveling to events in as a kid. With over 90 000 miles, we made quite a few!

The 1935 Chev built between the cherry tree and the apple tree in Paul Horton’s parents back yard.

My brother and I before we were made redundant by pin-ups. I’m the cute blond making the bird face.A Li

Dear Welder Series…

I am looking for a crossmember kit to put in my 67 mustang I need to know which one to order for my application?.?. I was looking at your flats do these require forming? If so do they come with fab prints? I was also wondering if these are made from a-36 and are they laser or plasma burnt?  thanks in advance,  mark

Mark, the 56″ kit is the one to use on your Mustang.
The main crossmember plates (there are two of them in a kit) have laser-cut slits that go through the steel.  There are 3 “bridges” that hold the part together.  The slit makes it possible (and easy) to fold the crossmember pieces by hand.  The rack mounts are part of the main crossmember, so they will be in the right location when the crossmember is assembled.  The rack mounts are designed with laser-cut slits and can be folded without anything more than an adjustable wrench, too.  There is a video showing this at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoYOYT1iZTY .  Our crossmembers are laser cut from 44W or A569 steel.

Thanks for asking.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…

Do you know which of your weld in kits are compatable with a 61 Ford Falcon?

Thanks

The 56″ kit is the one to use in your Falcon, Gord.

Thanks for asking.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…

I found your web site surfing and have been grinning since. I have a 1974 Opel Manta with some holes in the frame. I want to tub it out, not too much, but enough to run a 12″ wide slick.
I am not sure on how to measure the curves in the pieces I need, but I can make them out of carboard, label them, and send to you with some pictures. Unless you have an easier way for me to get the measurements to you?
I plan on getting the 58″ Mustang II front cross member kits, and more as I go.
Thanks for the great web site and the instruction videos, that helps guys like me so much. Not alot of money, can fabricate, but not sure on the technical measurements or set up, you guys make it a little easier.
Take care.
Phil

Phil, we like to see people grinning!
All of our frame curves, vertical and horizontal, are 4″ inside radius.  It will be far better to buy the curves that we stock than to have us make curves to match your frame.  You could make cardboard pieces for our stock curves and hold them up to your frame.  A 3 x 2 vertical curve will be 4″ inside radius and 7″ outside radius (4″ + 3″).  The 3 x 2 horizontal curve will be 4″ inside and 6″ outside (4″ + 2″).
I hope this helps.  Thanks for asking.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…

I’m looking at your mustang II kits and I watched your video but I still can’t see if they will work with a full fendered ‘31 ford coupe.  The upper control arms can’t go very far above the top edge of the frame for the fenders to mount properly. If I would lower the whole assembly it would raise the car front considerably. Do you have any suggestions?

You’re right, Gary.  A Mustang II does not work easily in a Model ‘A’ (or late 20’s/early 30’s Chevs either).  The upper towers and the upper arms themselves, as you point out, will interfere with the fenders.  The front mounted rack interferes with the splash apron under the rad shell, too.  My suggestion?  Heidt’s Superide or Kugel or TCI custom IFS.

Thanks for asking.  I hope we can help with other parts for your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…

Hi.  Saw your posts and great reviews on the HAMB.  I am finally getting back to work on a project that has been 14 years in the making.  I’m going to be 30 next year, and I’d like to drive my truck before then.

I’d like to  fab a custom 4-bar tube axle suspension with coil-overs.  I’m going to be running an IHC 392 and borg-warner 3 speed.  The IH engine ways as much as a big block Chev.  I’d like to get my truck fairly low running 16″ wheels.  I have a friend who is a welder that will be helping me with the frame.  I plan to stick with leaves in the back, and will likely need to c-notch the frame and install ladder bars.
I’m wondering what you can supply or fabricate to help me with my project.  Any help/suggestions especially concerning the front axle would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks very much for your time.
Sincerely,
John

Thanks for asking about Welder Series parts, John.

There are generally 2 types of tubular front axles:
1.  A straight tube that is bent a each end to “drop” the center section.  The spindle/king pin boss is then welded into a notch machined into the end of the tube.  Often the king pin is locked in place with a set screw.  These axles are made for vehicles much lighter than your truck.
2.  The “Super Bell” style with cast or forged “S”-shaped ends welded into a “smile”-shaped tube center.  These axles are designed to be used with a transverse spring.  This requires a crossmember to mount the spring.  The IHC 392 oil pan might want the same space as the crossmember.

Unless you are really committed to the front axle/4-bar suspension, I’d like you to consider a Mustang II independent.  There are several reasons:
1:  The ride height can (must) be established before the crossmember is installed.  Your truck will sit at the height where you want it.
2:  The ride quality will be better than with the axle.
3:  Steering will be more precise than with the axle.
4:  Power steering is easy to add or install later, if you want it.
5:  You can scout out and work around “ambushes” like oil pan interference before you are surprised.
6:  The rack mounts are part of the crossmember so the steering gear will be in the right spot.
7:  The cost is about the same as a finished dropped axle system.  But the truck’s resale value will be higher with the Mustang II.
7+:  There are more reasons for considering a MII suspension for this type of project, but ultimately, the project is yours.

I’m a big fan of coil-overs and air bags (conventional or ShockWaves) for rear suspension systems because they have a designed ride height.  That is, the suspension brackets get set up knowing that the coil-over or air spring will be at a designed height when the vehicle is ready to drive.  We use a piece of 1″ square tube with holes drilled at the coil-over’s ride height when building a project because there is no guessing at how much the suspension will compress under load.  We are going to use a spring (or air pressure) to achieve that ride height after all the weight is on the suspension.  Leaf springs do not allow this flexibility.  Leaves have to be added or removed, or the arch has to be changed.  Lowering blocks can be used to lower the frame, but it is difficult to raise the frame if necessary.

I hope this information helps with your planning.

Paul Horton

Street Rod Builder pubilshed a great little ditty about our frame curves in their April ‘09 ‘Street Rod Trends’ section.  This is a great issue - there’s a beautiful ‘32 roadster, an update on Josh Kaylor’s ‘47 International pickup with Welder Series LS1 adapters, and a really neat ‘36 Ford feature.  They also highlight 20 tools that are handy to have in your home shop.

I’ve spent a lot of time trying to explain the ins and outs of a Bear body.  The double floor, double firewall, etc.  I took these pictures in 2004 at a show, and came across them just now.  I think they do a rather good job of showing, not just telling.

Dear Welder Series…

I have a 1956 Chev truck and want to put a 4 link in the back .was thinking of a triangulated one.  would that work? the frame is 34 inches wide.or should i use a parallel 4 bar and a panhard bar and which kit # do you recommend ? thank you Dave

Dave, this is a good question… There are several considerations when choosing a rear suspension system.
An important one is frame width.
A typical triangulated rear 4-link has the upper bars mounting off of the frame boxing plates and angling back to each side of the differential housing.  The narrower the frame, the less triangulation is possible unless the upper bars get shorter.  Shorter upper bars cause greater pinion angle change.  The upper bars could be angled from wide apart on the axle tubes to close together off of a crossmember to get more triangulation.

A parallel 4-link and Panhard bar is not as sensitive to frame width.  The bars should be mounted as wide apart as practical to stabilize the rear end.

The triangulated system requires more precise installation.  It costs less because there is no Panhard kit

The parallel 4-link/Panhard system allows adjustment in any direction with a minimal effect on other settings.

Both systems can cause problems with exhaust routing.

I recommend the parallel kit because it’s easier to install and easier to set up.

Thanks for writing.  I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…

Do you make your universay sway bar in 0500 inch diameter. The 48 Plymouth Conv I’m working on never had a rear sway bar and I may not be able to use anything greater than .750 on the front.

Bob

Bob, all of our sway bars are .75″ diameter.  The outer tube, which serves as a bearing (urethane bushing) holder and a place for the mounting tabs, is 1-3/8″ O.D.

Thanks for looking at our parts.

Paul Horton.

Dear Welder Series…

Specifically I’m looking to get into a tig setup for the first time. Would a Miller Maxstar 150 be powerful enough to do the nice (and quick, I might add!) tig welding I see being done on your videos?

Thanks, Scott

Thanks for asking me about this welder, Peter.  I’m not familiar with it, but it seems light.  Here is a forum thread that I’ve been following that might be helpful: http://canadianrodder.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3206

I know Mike (Oldman) and respect his knowledge.  (He’s a heck of a good guy, too.)

I hope this helps.

Paul Horton.

A gas tank needs a vent.  Otherwise, as the fuel leaves the tank and is blown up in the engine, a vacuum is created and eventually the fuel pump won’t be able to suck hard enough.  Try this: plug your nose.  Say “wukka wukka wukka!”  No seriously, plug your nose and breathe through your mouth.  Then cover your mouth with your hand.  Not for very long though.  Now release your nose.  Your nose is like the vent valve, your lungs are the engine.  Oxygen obviously represents gas.  As your lungs try to get more air, pretty soon the reserve in your mouth runs out, but as soon as you open the vent (your nose) the engine runs smoothly.  If this experiment didn’t work, see a doctor - you’re not plumbed right.

Moving right along, here’s how I vented the tank.

Revision 1 was slipping a rubber hose over the barbed end of the gas tank vent.  Revision 2 was copying Cam, who slipped a short section of rubber hose over the barbed fitting then transitioned to stainless hard line.  Here’s revision 3:

The brass piece on the right is the rollover valve/ vent.  You can see the barbs on the top of the fitting where hose normally slides over.  I’ve ‘toned down’ the barbs.

The 3/16″ stainless line *almost* fits inside the barbed part of the brass valve, so I machined it down just a bit so it slips tightly in.  Remember, this line is mostly for vapors, with the occasional fuel sloshage.  The two hex fittings are threaded on to a joiner fitting which I machined the hex off, just like the front brake lines.

Here’s the final product (I hope).  You see, the tank is already in place so I had to use a welding rod to get the basic shape I needed, then transfer those bends to the stainless line.  I put the joiner fitting in place so that the fitting can be installed and then hooked up to the vent tube, since there’s not enough room for the whole thing to twirl around as the vent is tightened.

We get emails.  We reply to emails.  All of them.  Even those nice people who want to see me more satisfied.  (What’s a “male product”, anyways?  Am I a product of my own imagination?)  Anyways, I thought some of these tech type emails would be beneficial to more of you than solely the person who penned keyed the question.  Onward.

Dear Welder Series…

“Hi there,
I recently purchased one of your triangulated 4-link from Horton’s (www.horton.on.ca).  I am currently building a 28 Model A Tudor and I am building my own frame.  I’m about ready to start fabricating the rear section of the frame and I was wondering if you can give any tips on how to rig up the rear suspension/frame so I can get the car as close to the ground as possible without loosing to much headroom since the car is going to be chopped.  I will be running 32″ tall rear tires and I would like the frame to be about 5 inches off the ground (at the floor before the rear Z).  Also, I will be channeling the body.

Thanks a lot for your help!
Paul”

Dear Paul…

This will be a neat project, Paul, but will require some planning.

The rear suspension set-up depends on the tire size.  The frame mount for the lower bar should be about 5″ lower than the axle centerline (c/l), as shown in the installation drawing.  With your 32″ tall rear tire, axle c/l will be about 15-1/2″ from the ground.  We figure about 1/2″ for tire “squat” (the flat part of the tire on the ground).  Using this information and your 5″ frame-to-ground dimension, and assuming(?) a 4″ high frame rail, the lower bar frame mount will be about 1-1/2″ higher than the top of the frame rail (2-1/2″ if you use 3×2 rails).

The upper bar frame mount should be about 2-1/8″ higher than the axle c/l height, or about 17-5/8″ from the ground.  This would be about 8-5/8″ above the top of a 4″ frame rail or 9-5/8″ above a 3″ rail.

You might be able to incorporate both of these frame mounts into the kick.  Or the lower mount could be a “bump” on top of the rail and the upper mount could be on the kick-up.

I would do lots of mock-up work before cutting anything.  Then I’d tack everything in place and carry on with the build.  This makes it easier to deal with “ambushes” (things that crop up that you weren’t prepared for).  Specifically, check the angle and position of the upper bars.  This will have an effect on the frame width (or vice-versa).

I hope this helps.

Paul Horton

If you want to send us an email, it’s easy: click on these words

Dear Welder Series…

Are these (Mustang II kits) made to fit a particular frame? We have a 66 Chevy II. I would have to check if the front wheel base falls within the 56” to 60” range of these kits.

Also. We already have an Aerospace Components disc brake setup on this car, so could the stock spindles work?

Thanks for any info,

Bill

Thanks for writing, Bill.

Our MII kits are designed to be notched by the builder so the ride height is where you want it. Our installation sheets go through this process step by step. The 56″ kit would be the one to use on your Chevy II.

The GM spindles are quite different from the MII spindles and can’t be used on the MII crossmember. If the brake kit is designed for your stock GM spindles, it will not work with Mustang II spindles. Possibly some components can be used, but the spindles are quite different.

I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton.

Dear Welder Series…

Rob here. Mr_____v on the H.A.M.B. and some other boards.

I’m about to build a new frame for my 48 Chevrolet Pickup and since I already have a stash of M II suspension pieces I’ve pretty well decided that the most logical way to go with the suspension is to use one of your kits and the factory Ford pieces including the strut arms.

The plan is to run steel rims with a shallow reverse or offset . Basically the old 15×7 chrome reverse wheels that have been around forever.

Ride will be low but with coil springs and no bags.

My question is, Which of your M-II kits do you suggest for this application? I can figure out the outside of hub part easy enough but do you have certain kits that are made especially for the AD GM trucks?

Rob

Hi, Rob. Thanks for writing.

The 56″ MII kit is normally used with your series pickups. You would still notch the crossmember and the upper towers so the frame ride height will be where you want it.

Be sure to order the strut rod bracket & gusset kit (#108140) and, if you will use the later model T-Bird rack, order the rack mount spacer kit (#24410). The steering shaft bearing support (#219600) is another thing you will probably need.

The reversed wheels will likely still be o.k. to use as there is quite a bit of space out to the fender edge with standard wheels.

I hope this answers your questions. If not, please hit me again from another direction.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…

To whom may help,

I see you have your brake pedal brackets kits available, but I was curious if you had anything to serve both a hydraulic brake AND clutch pedal kit.    (IE a two pedal design with opposite direction offsets etc)   Do let me know if you can help!  I am currently putting a 1947 Ford Truck Body on a GM 2 ton chassis with a Cummins motor and I am looking for an original looking solution to having a hydraulic clutch and hydroboost brakes.)

Mike

Mike, we do have a brake & clutch pedal set-up, but it isn’t in the webstore yet.  Please go to the catalog pdf file, http://www.welderseries.com/hardcopy/weldercat.pdf , page 21.  When people buy this kit, we usually suggest substituting, in the brake pedal/master cylinder bracket kit, a brake pedal with no offset so the pedals can be offset symmetrically to clear the steering column.  This reduces the price slightly.

I hope this helps.  Please write again if you have other questions.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

update: We do have the brake/ clutch pedal assembly in the web store - click here, then check out the youtube video.

Dear Welder Series…

working on a 73 javelin with a chevy big block conversion need idea on motor mount fabrication for this application

Our C005 mounts (http://www.welderseries.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=124) are very versatile and should be a good choice for your Javelin.

The 2149 is a urethane-bushed mount that is easy to install and has a hi-tech look.  (http://www.welderseries.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=161)

I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton

A fellow called today and said he had seen our lower axle bracket video on YouTube and that he would like to order a pair.  I was pleased - that’s exactly what those videos are intended to do… educate the customer so they feel confident buying our parts.

To be honest, I was a little skeptical of YouTube at first, in terms of driving sales.  We started posting videos in about June of 2007, mostly to show people how easily our Mustang II kit goes together (it “practically assembles itself“) and highlighting the benefits of making your own hot rod parts.  In our instructions, we would include a link to a video on YouTube where they could see what they just bought being assembled.  It was a free place to host videos!  Soon after, we started getting comments that people had seen our videos and would like to order “that part”.

Currently, we have 46 videos hosted on YouTube.  They consist of installation videos, tech tips, how-tos, and even a few Model A frame build videos.  Almost 200 people have subscribed to be notified when a new video is posted.  In total, the Welder Series videos have been watched almost 156 000 times from the USA to Spain to Slovakia.

As we continue to release new products, new videos will always run parallel.

It’s exciting to think that right now, someone might be watching a Welder Series video somewhere around the world!

Click here to see our YouTube channel.

Thanks for your support.

dw

Bob sent us some pictures of one of our Mustang II kits he’s made into a frame stub for a ‘57 Olds.  Thanks Bob - looks great!  There’s a $10 credit on your account for using the pictures.

We thought for a while, drew our thoughts on the blackboard, and finally came up with a much simpler edition.  Since the floor of the Bear Fiberglass body is so thick (almost 2″), and it is composed of two layers of fiberglass sandwiching a sort of foam material, it can be ’squished’, for lack of a better word.  Imagine standing on a pop can.  Or you can stand on a soda can.  Either way, unless you’re reading this blog from the comfort of the womb, you will probably collapse the walls of the can.  Imagine now that you drop a steel tube inside, just shorter than the height of the can.  The walls will collapse just a tiny bit, but then the strength of the tube will hold your weight.  Probably.

Same idea here.  We’re putting a tube spacer inside the floor so that when the bolts get tightened, they will cinch the body down but won’t be able to overtighten and crush the fiberglass.

This is one of the only pictures you’ll see of me working on the car… and it happens to be the easiest job other than cleaning.

Time to install the engine!  Here, the transmission mount is swung (my computer didn’t put a red line under “swung”, so I guess it’s a word) out of the way, waiting for the transmission.

Great!  Fits just like it did the first time!

Sometimes planning ahead can be a pain in the behind.  A long time ago, before the rear end was painted, we decided to drill a hole for the breather.  Great idea, we thought.  It looked pretty slick, right between the four link brackets like it was supposed to be there.  Fast forward to a few weeks ago (yes that makes sense if you think about it), and now there is a sway bar tab right over the breather hole.  In order of priority, the sway bar tab wins. I had tacked it in place from below, and I didn’t notice/didn’t remember that the breather hole was there too.

I removed the tab, filled the hole, ground it smooth, and welded the sway bar tabs permanently.  Then we had to choose a new location for the breather.  As it turns out, it was a good thing we waited to install it; Garth Webb, a builder from next door, brought over this mini stainless breather for us to use! The holes in the sway bar tabs are 3/8″, so you can get an idea of how tiny this little guy is.

Thanks Garth!

What exactly is a hole, anyways?  Is a hole something you can feel?  According to the Merriam-Webster online dictionary… no wait, nevermind.  This is a blog about hot rod parts.  Now that I’ve said that, at first glance these don’t look much like hot rod parts.  I suppose it looks something like a “World Fake Currency Tour” or “Mini Metal Frisbee Tournament” collection.  So by now you’re begging me to answer the only question you could have after an introduction like that: “Has this guy been tuning his car with the door closed?”  No.  The real question is “What are these things, and how will they make my life easier?”

So what the heck would you call these things?  “Lunar Cycle Diorama?”  “Substitutes for cucumbers on the eyes while sunbathing?” “Really heavy, boring buttons?”

We decided to call them unholes.  They’re not holes.  They’re unholes.  If you have an idea of what they’re for, please comment with your suggestion.  We thought they would be great for filling actual holes in your firewall. You could also use them to cap the end of a tube.

Available in 11 sizes: very small, 5/8″, 3/4″, 7/8″, 1″, 1-1/8″, 1-1/4″, 1-3/8″, 1-1/2″, 1-3/4″, 1-7/8″.

A bag of 10 of one size for only $2.50.

This is a good shot of our sway bar kit installed through the frame rails.  In this case, it’s hooked up to a Jaguar IRS with some rod ends and threaded tubes.  Thanks for sending the pictures, Bill!  There is $10 in Welder Series Bucks on your account.

FYI, if we publish your pictures of our products, we’ll put $5 per picture on your account!

As the car goes back together, we’re finding little things that we’ve wanted to get done which have made their way to the bottom of the proverbial pile.  We had talked a long time ago about making some sleeves so we could put 3/8″ button head bolts in the spreader bar holes instead of the 1/2″ bolts that came with the spreader bar.  The thought was brought up again during reassembly, and instead of trying to machine some spacer/ washers so the 3/8″ bolt wouldn’t be sloppy in the 1/2″ hole, I made a pilgrimage to the lathe and removed some metal.  Here’s the result - a smaller, thinner head.  This is a before/after shot, with the before bolt in hole on the right.

Well, you can now show your support for Welder Series by becoming an official fan!  I don’t think I’ll have T-shirts made or anything, but it’s still fun.  Click on the logo above for access.

I’ve gone ahead and added t shirts in all sorts of sizes in our web store.  While you’re there, you can check out our chassis parts too!

I am modifying the log intake for a 2 barrel direct mount carb.  I will bolt on a aluminum plate for the Holley carb to bolt on to.

the plan is to get more air into the engine so it developes more power

Egge Machine and Speed Shop is proud to introduce Del Austin as its new Sales Director. Del has many years of automotive aftermarket industry experience at the Jobber, WD, and Manufacture levels. He has owned and operated both Jobber stores and Machine Shops, and is a hands-on enthusiast. Del has a collection of both pre-war and post-war vehicles.

“I have known of and done business with Egge Machine Company for many years; first, as a customer and, more recently, as an account rep for advertising sales. It’s a great company with a vast history and I am looking forward to working with the great people here.” Del continues: “Egge Machine Company not only supplies obsolete and vintage engine parts and kits, but also manufactures a complete line of high quality pistons as well as remanufactures water, fuel, and oil pumps. We want to be sure the entire automotive world is aware of everything we do here at Egge.”

Del will be responsible for growing national account sales and leading Egge’s highly experienced team of engine parts experts. You can reach Del at 800-866-3443 ext. 30 or e-mail him a congratulatory note at Del@Egge.com.


ABOUT EGGE MACHINE AND SPEED SHOP:
Parts and Services for Nostalgic Engines
Established in 1915, Egge Machine Company is a world-class piston and valve manufacturer as well as a distributor of nostalgic performance and restoration engine components for pre-1980 domestic engines. Egge is one of the few remaining U.S. based piston manufacturers. Egge operates a state of the art foundry, machine shop, and pump remanufacturing operation in Santa Fe Springs, CA. Visit us at www.Egge.com.

History of Egge Machine Company

Founded in 1915 Egge Machine Company is a world-class piston manufacturer that specializes in domestic vehicle applications from the early 1900s to 1980. Egge operates a state-of-the-art foundry and world-class machine shop in its Santa Fe Springs, CA facility.

The Early Years
Founded by Edward N. Egge (known as E.N. by his friends) in Plainview, Texas in 1915 selling, servicing and repairing Mason racing cars. The small automotive machine shop did more than just replace engine parts on vehicles of the day; it made new parts when necessary. Because of limited availability and no automotive aftermarket, replacement parts – especially pistons – were constantly in short supply and difficult to get. Egge solved both problems by making his own aluminum pistons using the sand-cast process. This commitment to his customers’ needs enabled him to meet the demand and keep his business growing.

The “Roaring Twenties” found Egge relocating his repair operation to the west coast. In 1923 Egge Machine Company moved to downtown Los Angeles, CA. Egge continued to service the cars, and trucks of a growing California population. The citrus boom was at it’s peak and Egge grew to include tractor motor parts in an effort to keep up with the changing times.

In the 1940’s E.N.’s son; Nels began designing building and utilizing steel molds in conjunction with sand casting pistons the company had employed years earlier. The steel molds boosted the quality and throughput of manufacturing as well as increasing the vehicle models and years.  The post-war era saw another area of growth with providing parts for Indian and Harley Davidson motorcycles. Basically, if your vehicle had a combustion engine, Egge had the parts to keep it running. “Hot Rodding” also became popular at this time and Egge was on the fringe in close proximity to Edelbrock, Iskendarian, and SoCal Speed Shop.

Both of E.N.’s sons worked in the business until the late 1950’s when E.N. died at age 82. At that time, Sy Egge began Egge Marine working on marine engines. In 1958, Nels moved Egge Machine Company to Gardena, CA and continued the family tradition of manufacturing hard-to-get engine parts as well as buying new old stock (N.O.S.) parts. Nels also had other parts remanufactured to supply the parts needed to complete the engine rebuilding process. Nels purchased a large number of three-piece molds. This allowed him to continue to increase the model years of cars and trucks covered.

In 1972 Nels’ son Bob Egge moved the company to its present located in Santa Fe Springs, CA where they have several buildings totaling 50,000 square feet of manufacturing, warehousing, distribution, sales, office and showroom space. Further enhancement to the manufacturing process came in the form of hydraulic molding equipment. Again, expanding the range of coverage to include ‘60’s and ‘70’s model years and expanding the throughput of product.

Bob Egge and his sister Kathryn Weaver are third generation owners who have recently handed the management reigns over to Ernie Silvers, CEO to manage the company to a new century of growth on the heels of their 93+ year family tradition of excellence, fulfilling a legacy begun by their grandfather a long time ago – striving to remain the world’s source for obsolete engine parts.

Today the operation has expanded with valve manufacturing, oil, fuel, and water pump remanufacturing, Timing case rebuilding, babbitt bearing work, and now offering engine building and machining work.

Old school craftsmanship and modern technology.

Egge’s manufacturing facility has three cells with CNC machines including a 5-axis Vertical Machining Center which does the job of 6 different manual machines thus allowing less opportunity for mistakes and creating consistent quality products. From the foundry the raw piston is placed in a CNC Lathe to clean the top, and mill the ring grooves. From there the piston goes to the 5-axis CNC to drill the oil holes, horizontal slots, t-slots and holes, finish bore the pin diameter with in .0003 to .0004” specs and machine the lock ring groove where appropriate.

This long-term commitment to growth, excellence and quality enables a continued existence in an ever-changing marketplace.

Basically, I've almost got the new engine running. (I'll try to get some videos up of it running.)

What this means is that "peachy" now needs to travel up to where I am studying. This will be the last time that the little 1600 crossflow will have to pus her along!! Will try to get some good pictures as for a change England is sunny!

Hey, just trying to get the hang of this site. Thought I'd make a blog post this morning encouraging readers to check out my blog at www.suedeandchrome.blogspot.com.

I go to a lot of cruise-ins and car shows in the Midwest and always take my digital camera with me. The blog documents these trips as well as other kool stuff like "upgrades" to my '50 Chevrolet and anything I might run across on the Internet that I feel is "Suede and Chrome worthy".

Stop by and check out it. Feel free to leave a comment or two and sign my guestbook.

Singlefinger Speed Shop to Invade 2009 Detroit Autorama

After a lot of hard work, plus multiple trips to Lowes, Home Depot, the old backyard shed, the shop rafters, & even some garbage picking, the Autorama display is finally done! It looks so freakin' awesome! Many thanks to everybody that helped make this come together.

I thought everybody might like to get a sneak-peek of our new display, because once we added the proper details, the lettering, & got the lights working, it really came to life.   (www.SinglefingerSpeedShop.com)  It's so realistic that Wayne wanted to know where we found the old panels, even as he was touching them! (killer work Todd & Tom!) The attached photo was taken just before we broke it back down & put in a trailer until showtime next week.

I don't know how our pal Martyn avoided getting captured on "film", but I've posted a few pics of everybody helping out along the way: 2009 Autorama Display

We're excited about introducing folks to our new website at this year's show. My cousin Louie has planned an Autorama Show Special for our new black Monster T-shirts & Singlefinger ball caps.

The Singlefinger Car Club will have 4 cars on display this year, each car highlights a different facet of the traditional hot rod scene.

Singlefinger Speed Shop's 2009 Detroit Autorama Event Schedule:

3pm Fri, Sat, Sun - H.A.M.B. "Meet & Greet".
6-10pm Sat - John Harrow (pinstriper/ artist) and model Jessica Danley will host a body art exhibit.
John will be adding his licks to any purchase of Singlefinger merchandise.
4pm Sun - Meet Kara G, Sunday's lovely spokesmodel.

We will be working with Pike to keep all of you guys & gals informed on what goes on at this year's show.  We'll send back pics of the cars, the people, & most importantly, the Ridler winner!

Can't wait to see ya at the show!

www.SinglefingerSpeedShop.com

Things in Iowa had hit the skids since I had my last spine surgery in August of 07. Medical bills and loss of income forced my wife back to work and as a teacher she was unable to make enough income in Iowa to make up for the loss of my income. So we started the search and found Texas.

My work with the Christopher and Dana Reeve Foundation continues I am actually heading up the Iowa and now Texas Chapters to continue to build the reach of the Foundation. I am working dilligently to build my health up and get to a point where I am functioning and able to really get back to work. My goal has always been to work my way off of Social Security Disability. Being able to walk again has given me a great deal of inspiration and motivation. However the pain is still incredible and often keeps me from participating and I am still finding myself in bed more often than I would like I need to be able to make a full day without the pain knocking me out of commission. The recovery from the surgery has taken so much longer than I had anticipated. I am fully recovered and the results of the surgery were positive but not as much as I had hoped for.

The move to Texas has been stressful finding physicians and building a team of medical specialists to manage my care and ongoing treatments for Arthritis, Arachnoiditis, Peripheral Neuropathy, Degenerative Disc Disease, and the incredible pain of the Nerve Damage in and around the areas of my spine that have been operated on I hope to find a pain specialist to help manage my drug regiment and assist in reducing the amount of narcotics I intake for pain control. I feel that at 44 years of age I should not be forced to consider a morphine pump and increasing use of stronger and more damaging drugs. I want to increase my functionality and reduce the medications but thus far no treatment or medication has been developed to make this possible. I will say that the beautiful weather of Texas has helped make my health and outlook much improved. The aches and pains that come with severe cold and damp weather that is Iowa's fall and winter weather. I hope to increase my activity through the fall and winter here as the weather will enable me to stay outside, walk, exercise and get out of the house. then working with progressive thinking physicians willing to look at anything new and different that may come along that has demonstrated results to try new treatments and methods with me is my main focus currently.

I hope to keep everyone posted and let you all know the progress if any. Thank you all for your support and encouragment over this past year. My friends at MyRideIsMe have done so much to assist me in spreading the word about the SuperCruise and my story that I will be forever grateful and do everything in my power to spread the word about this Amazing Site. I ask that everyone continue their efforts in getting the attention of Chip Foose and the OverHaulin television program to select me and the "Go Forward 50" Lowrider Project for a "mark" on the program. Thank you so much for all the support and kind words. 

I look forward to hearing more from all of you members and supporters of MyRideIsMe.com

Best Wishes

Joe "Cool Breeze" Kelly Chairman

Iowa Chapter The Christopher and Dana Reeve Foundation, Founder of the Joe Kelly Spinal Injury Foundation

Founder of the SuperCruise and SuperShow'n Shine a charitable event benefitting the Christopher and Dana Reeve Foundation

First off, let me start by saying that not everyone has an eye for photography, (But I will give you some very helpful tips that photographers won’t tell you to help improve your eye *wink wink*)

The #1 most important thing in taking pictures of a car is the angle. I cannot stress this one enough! Just think of all the magazines you have seen with car pictures in them. And I will guarantee that 99.9% of the ones that really stand out have interesting angles. And the ones that don’t have that wow factor make the car seem, well.. blah. So just try tilting the camera just a bit and look through the viewfinder and see what you come up with!

Next thing is don’t be afraid to get dirty!! Some of the best angles to get are where you are literally rolling around in the dirt with your arms tangled and practically choking yourself with the camera strap! Also shots look really interesting if you manage to get all four wheels in the picture.

Also having a decent camera is definitely a must if you want really good quality. I always shoot in RAW format (instead if jpeg) but if RAW isn’t available just shoot on the largest jpeg available, so if you want to get prints enlarged you are able to without the image looking too pixelated. The best cameras for automotive photography are DSLR's. (Those are the big cameras that you can change lenses and flashes and all kinds of fun stuff on).

Knowledge of a photo editing program is a huge plus if you want your images to stand out from the rest. The leading one out there is Adobe Photoshop CS3. If you can't afford CS3 ($600), Adobe Photoshop 6 is available for around $100 bucks and is very simple for beginners (who have some knowledge of computers, that is). With a photo editing program you can fix the image to look the way you want it. For example, taking out a shadow or unnecessary background or perhaps someone who is picking their nose right in front of your car....

Well I hope this was somewhat helpful, this is my first blog I have ever wrote, so don’t be too hard on me if I screwed up the spelling or if I don't make any sense. I should be posting more soon, so check back!

 -Heather Roche' from Desert Hot Rod Photography

www.DesertHotRodPhotography.com

www.myspace.com/DesertHotRodPhotography

20 October 08

Went to a friends place this weekend for a club chop party. Club member Sally had a birthday this week (19th or 20th I can't recall) and when asked what she wanted as a gift, said she wanted her Morris Minor chopped. So, her clubmates got together and we had a chop party.

Pikesan has asked me to write a little article about this for the homepage, so I'll just give you a little teaser here for now.

We started with this...

Gave Sally the honour of the first cut..

..and ended up with...well, you'll just have to wait and see.

In the meantime, I will show you a couple of pictures of Hosts Kelvin and Becky's lovely model A.

And something that came by to see what was happening.

Look out for the feature as soon as I can sort through the 150 pictures I took of the weekend.

October 5th 08

Spent the weekend with my Friends Paul & Jane at their place on the South Coast.

Paul is the owner of a beautiful F100 Panel truck. Due to Paul's confinement to a wheelchair and his great sense of humour about his situation, the truck has been named 'Krip Fink'. Some time ago he asked me to design and paint a Rat Fink cartoon on the rear door.

This weekend I spent a day working on Jane's runabout. It's a Hillman Super Minx convertible that has been nicknamed 'Naughty Minx'. To make her look a little more kustom, Jane asked me to add some scallops. Nothing too over the top, just a little kustom touch. Also, to reflect her name, I painted a cartoon on the rear panel.

 Thanks to Paul & Jane for the opportunity to work on their cars again and also for a great toga party!

Rode the bike from Surprise to Mitchell SD. Since this is about rods...

 We got there Friday night the 26th to the kick off party. Man the band was greeted by my friend Wolfman Jerry. We we introduced to Bo Huff. What a character.

The bad Mezcal bros was great. they have folks up and dancin. Wildman was out in the parking lot drumin up some striping buisiness. He did some work on my bike, and did not work on some kool rides there. Did some work on some leathers. Larry Bun Bundersen was doing this really kool Diamond T the day of the show. Bun is really kool and in the pinstriping hall of fame. I see why.

 There was so much going on for almost 3 full days. Saturday nights party was out ragous. I forgot the name of the band but they had people rockin.

 It was worth the 3200 mile round trip bike ride. Met some real icons of the kulture.

Outkasts gave us the long distance award. We were greeted like celebs. We went all the way to Mitchell SD for the Outkast car show.

Long ride for a car show, but well worth it.

 Greenie

I'm not being snarky, as my mom would say...

There are a few blisters on my lips after working on the lathe yesterday... I had a big chip fly off the cutter and pucker up for a big smooch right on my lips.   I'm not talking about a little grade school peck - this was a blue chip that embedded itself halfway between my upper and lower lip and stuck there until I flicked it off.  

It's a good thing I make a funny face when I machine, otherwise I probably would have swallowed it.  

What I'm leading up to is a plea for safety goggles at least.  Don't play games with body parts that don't grow back.  Sure, blisters on my lips will heal, but if I had a sore back and was leaning over a bit more (for example), this flying chip would have ended up embedded in my eyeball.

I can't count the number of times I've seen guys working with no safety glasses.  Hopefully I won't hear of any of them not being able to work at all because they can't see half a foot in front of their face after an 'accident'.

Till next time, I'm milking the "can you kiss it better" line for all it's worth.

dw

The engine bay

OK, so here's how it looked before I began

Filthy and with an untrustworthy 2 litre Pinto motor set way too far back. I believe that the autobox is about 6 inches longer than the manual so I'm hoping that this will solve a problem or two. Since the motor needs to move forward anyway, I'm thinking that the longer auto, used with the propshaft that is already there will move the motor forward for me. Some new or repositioned mounts and that will be that.

So, the old motor has been removed and sold on and the cleanup began today. I tried the POR15 Marine Clean for cleaning and degreasing and it worked pretty well. I have also removed the old shock absorbers (I have nice shiny new ones to go in) and the springs while I was at it.

So, here's what I have after today's efforts.

Hopefully I'll be able to get some more done tomorrow. (Bearing in mind that the car is about 3 feet too long to fit in the garage and so I'm working outside!)

EDIT: Hmmm, can't seem to add pictures to the blog, so will put them into the gallery

Hey all, tootall here.

I'm a UK based pinstriper and hotrod artist. I mention this so that you will understand that I'm not a mechanic or an engineer. My mechanical skills are slowly improving and likewise my welding, fabricating and general bodywork skills. However, I'm an artistic type, so it doesn't necessarily come easy. Luckily I have a great bunch of friends and clubmates (I'm Chairman of UK Kustoms) who are always willing to help and advise. Unfortunately most of them live well over 200 miles away so the help they can offer is generally not 'hands on'.

As if all that doesn't make life difficult enough, my ride is a 1960 2-door Falcon wagon. An American car in the UK and not only that but a pretty rare one over here. In fact I believe that it's the only 1960 wagon over here (though of course I may be wrong - with a Wife and 3 Daughters I'm used to being wrong). This makes finding parts, especially body panels, pretty tough.

The fact that I live right down in the bottom left corner of the UK also means that everything is a long way away. This means that with the ridiculously high price of fuel here, economy is vital. To this end, I am fitting an English Ford Pinto motor and gearbox of 2 litres. The car had one of these in it already when I got it but I didn't trust the motor, so have a new, freshly rebuilt motor and autobox to go in.

I have already started on some of the bodywork as the old girl is pretty rotten.

 Yes, it's true, I have been dreading the front suspension of this project.  Mostly, because I had no idea what I was doing or how it would function when done.  Not doing it, made that it would be basically impossible for me to steer!!

I could rest much easier now, because it wasn't that big of a deal and went really smoothly.  The problem I was facing was to get 26 inch tall tires to steer in the miniscule  wheel opening found on a round body falcon.  The solution?  Remove 1 1/2 inches from both the upper and the lower control arms. 

 I squared up the arm on a couple of metal shims, and squared a laser level on a sawhorse, and just taped along the line.

 Once it was taped, I sprayed it with some primer and set about to remove everything gray. ( except obviously the overspray)

 They actually end up lining up rather well.  I will of course have to finish welding it, bracing it and finally boxing it, but the preliminary fit and functionality is great!

 1 1/2 inches sure brings the ball joint back quite a bit.  It definitely gives it that late 50s Cadillac/luxury liner look.

 It will now steer fully aired down.  Not too shabby for one Saturday :-)

 peace

http://dragnuts.ning.com/video/video/show?id=649284%3AVideo%3A44440

I see a steel part and I want it painted black...

This powder is supposed to be one of the most durable powders out there.  I don't know anything about powder coating (PC from now on) so I'll just be happy with the way it looks for now.  I should be getting the bars and other parts in an hour or so.

WOO!

We worked on the beast for 12 hours, and it almost looks exactly the same as it did before I started! (at lease to the neighbors!)

Certain tasks sure seem to go slowly. When I look back at the pics though, I can see why it took so long. Here is a small recap... (for a full-size recap, click on the picture link below)

Due to our needing to move the cross member 4 inches rearward, (because the overdrive trans was longer), we had to make new side plates. Construction paper makes the perfect template.

The next step was to bolt everything "in place" and tack the plates to the dual frame rails, and also to the crossmember itself.

Next, we had to cut the tacks that hold the plates to the frame rails, but leave the plates tacked to the cross member. we drilled small holes through the plates just to get me in the ballpark of where the holes in the crossmember are located. This is the part where we had to go in with a die grinder and enlarge all the holes, and line everything up perfectly with the holes in the crossmember. Then, we had to bevel all of the notches in the plates where it will weld to the frame rails. This makes the welds much stronger. we also had to patch any cuts that we put into the plates from hitting it with the cutting wheel, while removing it from the car. I also pulled a bonehead, and didn't account for the amount that the transmission mount will compress (which is about an inch) and drilled one of the holes too low. We had to fill this in. Can you see why it took 12 hours?

before (with patch in place)

after: 

 Next, was to bolt the finished beveled cleaned plates to the crossmember, put it under the car, and final weld the plates to the dual frame rails. Almost there... or so I thought. I discovered another bonehead. The crossmember is slightly wider at the top than it is at the bottom. ????

When I welded on the top eyes, the heat shrank the material and pulled the tabs out-wards. I couldn't get the darn thing out. After torching, bending, prying and pulling, I got it out, then had to grind it quite a bit to level it back out. (about two hours worth). This was not my favorite part of the project...

The final step is to box the frame mounts

The finished mount: (and don't forget to primer all of the metal inside the box before you weld it up, and allow a place downhill, preferably, where the water can drain,should any make its way in there...and it will)

I finished up the other side, primered everything and installed the transmission and cross member into the car.  DONE

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=9AbN2rJq3as4m

Now that the motor and the transmission are in and properly mounted, I could finally move on to another section of the car :-)

YAY!

…from the land of back bacon, Hockey and beer! 

Can your Fiero do this?

I get around a bit, and have had the honor of meeting some truly great people over the course of my life and career… Often times, I get an introduction to someone through a current client, or referred by another, and occasionally, I just stumble to the right place at the right time, and make a new friend. The latter is true with Ryan, who happens to be a very creative and talented fabricator in the Great White North. We crossed paths, and hit it off almost instantly. I had been admiring his work, and was stoked to find that he was admiring mine as well! Always fascinated with anyone who works with steel, I was just mesmerized with his vision and abilities. Schooled at BCIT in Vancouver, Ryan landed a great job at Fabrite Services in Cranbrook, and spent the next ten years at that great company,working up from cutting material and cleaning up, to an eventual role as shop foreman… While there, beyond being treated “like family”, he learned that “some people have some strange things to be built!”, as he puts it.  

Gratuitous in-progress shot!  

He also has some great mechanical skills, which he owes to both his father, and a natural curiosity as a kid. Fast-forward, and he’s completing the first of his planned series of supercar-inspired rides, a Reventon/Murcielago-looking beast, based on a Fiero platform he purchased for the princely sum of $60 just about a year ago… Knowing he got a great deal on the car, he didn’t want to leave it stock, and certainly didn’t want another fiberglass-wearing “kit” car. As the Fiero sat outside until December that year, he saw a Lamborghini Reventon, and knew just where to go with the wedge-shaped Pontiac. Researching the original car’s measurements, Ryan was off to the races, buying the steel, ordering glass from James at AGP, and finally, an intercooled, twin-turbo 350 Chevy and 6-speed trans with modified G6 axles, offering more than ample pulling power for the 3200 lb. ride. Add to that 11 1/4-inch cross-drilled and slotted rotors with Cadillac (rear) and Camaro (front) calipers, slowing it down should be well-controlled.

Dashing, isn't it?

The only regret at this point? “I’ll have to paint it”, says Ryan, “and cover up all of that work!” But fear not, as Ryan and I are getting the wheels moving on the next project, a Bugatti-inspired, home-built supercar that’ll bring in some elements from other great Italian exotics, and mix in some original styling points that we’re kicking around… and that means some more months of looking at bare steel!

Getting there...

Look for more updates as this beast nears completion and hits the road soon, as well as some previews of the design studies for his next home-built super car… In the meantime, keep an eye open over at Problem Child Kustoms Studio for more design/insight and delirium…

One of my favorite things about building a car or taking on any project of that size is the community that is created around the construction of it. When you work on a project of this magnitude and with as many high school kids that have stepped foot into the garage, every step along the way and stage of the project has significant and specific memories of conversations and people. Many of you probably do not know, but I have bilateral nerve damage in my arms, and lost the use of both my arms for about five years. During this time, I could do nothing, so I ended up helping my wife with the youth group at our church. What a cool experience to get to know other people's teenagers :-). Most of them actually listen when they're not yours. However, it was sad to see so much potential in those kids, and not a whole lot of output.

I am not a fan of sitting around in a room, going over curriculum in a book, and I don't think many of the kids are either. Building a car is one of those things that can bring out the best and worst in you. ( any wrench throwers out there?) The problems you run into...and the solutions end up employing, mirror many of those problems you will find in life later. Building a car is a source of endless object lessons. So, why not? I threw the invitation out there, and people started showing up. We meet once a week for four hours and work on everything from design, parts cleaning, welding and fabrication, engine swaps and pretty much everything you can run into. Most of the kids had never touched a power tool before. It is really awesome to see them get the hang of it and gain confidence in themselves...and really enjoy the rewards of doing a good job on long term project.

We have been going strong for one year and eight months:

Here are a few highlights

You got to love the face he's making on this one...

One of the many things we had to do was a complete roof swap. The original one was completely rusted out...

Let's learn about clean welding!

Many chefs in the kitchen, attempting to solve the mounting issue...and sharpening analytical thinking skills along the way.

The more experienced, instructing the new recruits on the idea of paper templates. See what I mean?, they totally pay attention:-)

How do you know, the new roof is going to fit and line up? Because the gauge you made off of the original roof, lines up with the new trim holes...

The motor will absolutely not fit!

Just enough danger and pain to intrigue the more adventurous...

Everyone who shows up works... no favorites, no exceptions. If you're new, you will likely be degreasing or sandblasting (See below), not welding, or working on the intake manifold.

It has been really awesome to watch these kids learn and grow. Some of them have gotten their own cars and projects, and others are making all kinds of crazy stuff. ( medieval armor and the like).

It's not that they all have to end up being into cars, or Fords or what ever, it's more about showing others that most things are doable, if you're just not afraid to try.

That applies to all areas of life :-)

peace,

kai

My buddy picked up the container from Oz last week.  I have been waiting for quite a while to get the overdrive transmission.  The transmission mount on the overdrive is 4 inches farther towards the rear of the car than the three speed, which I had mocked up. 

I couldn't finish my rear suspension until I had the driveline mounted, and I could get the pinion angle set, so ended up doing a lot of small piddly things that didn't show much progress.  I was also very curious about getting the container, as I had a set of headers coming as well.  I wanted to know how much I would have to cut up the car or the headers to get them to work.  They fit perfectly!  And my transmission mount that I had so laboriously created will still fit 4" back.  (even though I pulled a bonehead, and forgot to account for the 1 1/4" that the transmission mount will compress...got lucky on that one)  I just needed to make new attachment plates/boxes.  Still working on those...

here is the header, opposite the new intake manifold.  :-)

Here is the new overdrive trans, and cross member, and the start of the frame mounting plates/boxes.

...and yes, you read that right. "Supper Car" Club.

Why "supper"? Simply put, supper is the term usually used by my kids when refering to dinner-time here, and weekday dinners (or "supper") are usually nothing over-the-top or spectacular, just a fill-you-up on good food moment in the day. A necessary part of the day, without a lot of fluff. Kind of fitting as you'll see when we get to the cars that would be in this club.

I had stumbled across the supercar club idea back in 2000, and thought "novel idea"... but then dismissed it, and went back at my day job. This past week, the thought popped back in my head while parking at the Post Office to ship out some designs, and I parked next to a perfectly preserved Gremlin. (I know!! Bitchin'!!) How long has it been since you've seen one of those? Apparently, the three other folks checking it out had the same thought. (note to the owner of said ride: What I wrote on my card is serious. I want your car.)

If you're into exotics, you no doubt know of organizations like Group 20's incredible Super Car Club, or P1 Prestige and Performance Car Club, or a few others. The basic idea is a shared-access plan, wherein members have access to a number of exotics and luxury cars for about the same cost as owning ONE. Pretty slick, and not unlike shared-access plans for yachts, jets, beach mansions, islands and so-on. So, for like $30k per year, plus a $5-10k membership fee, you're driving a number of cool cars throughout the year, insurance included. Nifty if you're of the persuasion that can afford it. Me? Nope. I fall more in line with my nifty idea:

The Supper Car Club.

Regular folks cruising regular (and occasionally rare!) cars. We'll round up a group of investors, and purchase a fleet of hand-picked, basic transportation cars from the past and present (if you can get 'em from the future, well, we'd like a word with you, too!). We'll set up a membership fee based on the value of the cars, say $75.00 to join, plus like $300.00/year, and base it all on a points system, allowing everyone access to the cars. You may buy extra points, or trade points for allowing off-use days for cars, etc. Naturally, cruising the Cavalier rag top in June would be double he points of the Cimmaron with the broken A/C, but hey, this is about exclusivity.

I can hear it now-- "Why would anyone want to drive a car like a Citation, or a Fairmont sedan, or an '80 El Camino with a broken tailgate?" 

NOSTALGIA.

Unless you were some spoiled brat as a teenager, chances are that through college (or beyond if you draw cars for a living and have kids), you've driven some questionable-looking, as well as performing cars. And what always comes up in converations about those times past (or present... it happens)? "Man, I hated that car, but I miss it!" Admit it. That '79 Delta 88 with the door skins flapping in the breeze was pretty cool. You had FUN with it. I sure as hell did. And my friends still remember that car... even the ones I bump into so many years later... And think about it: If you're into cars like I am, you check everyhing out. Like the afforementioned Gremlin. I was drawn to that like flies on... oh wait, bad comparison... but you get the idea. A car that hits home will draw as much, if not more attention than some exotic ride. (consider Playboy's Farmer's Daughters specials--- I read it for the article on cobbler -- was that a fluke? The girl next-door is always more approachable, and often more realistic. I bet they sold millions. Cars are the same way, I've found.)

Admit it: You had this poster right next to that one with the white Lamborghini.

We'll offer typical high school and college-year cars, and even a few hot rod-style versions... Maybe '78 Malibu with a severe rake, N-50's and Jensen 6x9's on the package tray, or even a hand-me-down LTD in powder blue... The kind of stuff you had back then. Imagine pulling up to your reunion in a Camaro with a dented fender, a Moroso decal and sheepskin seat covers, just like you had back in school? Talk about keeping it real. No rental Caddy for you. Just bringing back memories, much like your mullet and parachute pants. 

And for those who were in all of the musicals, or had weird parents, we'll round up some used Volvos, VW's, and the cream of the crop:

...it's tres chic

(I'm showing the smaller cars so that we get the "green" folks on board. Fret not, my fellow size 34 EEE carbon-footprint friend, I'll be battling you for points on the Granada with the bad valve seals and cracked rings. We'll have a little something for everyone. AMC Eagle? We'll have THREE.)

All told, I think that once the trendies see Justin Timberlake pull up at the ESPY's in the Monaco with the Keystone mags, bad paint and bubbling tint on the windows, this club will be hotter than some crystal and gold-leaf decoupaged Von Dutch hat in an LA boutique after seeing it on a video awards show. 

If you're in, hit me up... This will be huge, and a total blast. I have a line already on a Volare' wagon and a cherry Grand Prix...

More insight/design/lunacy over at www.problemchildkustoms.com.

If you haven't heard, we'll be at Syracuse this weekend for the Syracuse Nationals.  It's a great show, with tonnes of 'extras' like entertainment at night, and lots of stuff to do during the day.  If you're the tech sort of person, you may enjoy Paul Horton's bracket seminars.  Check out the program for more details.  I'll also be welding Welder Series parts periodically through the day in the Haun Welding Supply booth. 

I hope I can get some time to walk around and take pictures for a little feature, too!  

If you're there, be sure to stop by our booth and say hello, check out our new products, and enjoy the show.

DW Horton

yup, still waiting for the powdered parts.  They had to order a custom black because the "matte" they were given was really just 25% semi gloss or something like that.  

After three months of work, the intake manifold is finally done!  The reason I went through all that work, is that there are no four barrel intake manifold's available through the 3.9 L Australian in-line six.  That motor was initially injected, but I didn't want the computers and the wires in the modern look.  Not only that, if there are any failures in any of the components, none of them could be acquired here and I would have to wait for shipping from Australia.

Here she is... 

 For those who are interested, here is the process...

 http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=9AbN2rJq3as34

The Race at the Port 

Melanie and the 1500 Triumph Spitfire 

Azpinstripers.com  here you will be able to find your favorite Arizona based pinstriper.  Striped has hand selected this small group of pinstripers to bring you the BEST pinstriping has to offer.  Please feel free to go and browse the artists that are there.  If you decided to have some work done please let the artist know where you found them.

  AZPINSTRIPERS.COM

JUST REMEMBER IT IS ALL ABOUT HAVING FUN AND LOVING WHAT YOU DO

                                 Ol' Sol

We went back and forth a few times on whether to powder or paint. 

Powder:

+ highly durable.

- very difficult to add new parts to the frame if we want to test something.

+ even coverage

- more expensive than hand painting

Paint:

when I say paint, I mean Zero Rust roll-on paint.  It flows out very nicely and it's hard to tell we did it here.

+ cheap

+ control over finished product... done in house

- prep work

- can be messy

+ easier to remove for new product testing

So... we decided to paint.  I haven't started the frame yet, because I won't be around next week and I didn't want to prep it and then have surface rust on it when I get back.  I did start painting some parts though.  

Yesterday, the owner of the shop next door to us (RPM Motorsports) came by to tell us about a new service they'll be offering... powder coating!  They're going to have a huge booth right next door to us.  How convenient could it get... to promote their new service, they offered to coat all the removable parts - bars, batwings, adjusters, brake pedal, etc.  I started to think about all the time it would save, plus we'll be giving credit to them at shows and cruise nights, so I loaded up a box and they should be done in a few days.  The frame and frame parts are going to be a matte or semi gloss black.  I think this will be a nice contrast with the bit of shine we have - drilled aluminum axle, polished brake stuff, etc.  I can't wait to start assembling!

Frame curves!

One time it's ok not to be kinky! So smooth!

^ this is how they come in the box.

 http://www.welderseries.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_125

click for more details, or check out the home page for an assembly video. http://www.welderseries.com

...on the shelves at once with my work is always a cool feeling! (now there's an understatement) I've been fortunate to have my work in print in Rod and Custom, American Rodder, and now Truckin' this month, making it a great start to the Summer months! I hope you find time to pick up all three of these issues, if not for the artwork, but the great content in all of them. The amazing Mercury wagon in American Rodder is worth the price of admission alone, we've already been over the amazing '54 Merc (hey, I see trend here) in R-n-C, and the special horsepower section in Truckin' makes for some good reading as well! Thanks to Dan over at Truckin' for slipping my artwork once again into the Radical Renderings pages (and look out soon for a project that he and I collaborated on, which spawned some great concept art!). I hope you enjoy them all as much as I did creating them...

...sure look awesome when looking over old magazines and photos, don't they? All of the killer cars, shiny paint, classic locations, impeccably dressed people and so-on. It makes it all the more interesting when you either stumble across (or are handed!) an old snapshot that captures real life... an actual hot-rodding moment, frozen on Instamatic or Polaroid paper... 

In this instance, we have such a subject; one that makes you say "D'oh!":  

Yep, it's harsh reality, there to smack you in the head, as it always seems to. The photo above came to my desk while hunting for source material to fuel my current background project, documenting East Coast customs and hot rods... 

My father gave me some surviving photos of old cars and car shows, and mixed in was the gem you see above. The car was his personal ride, a '57 Chevy 210 that he originally purchased with a six cylinder. The car received a nifty little 283, bored to 301ci, and backed with a 3-speed, 4.11:1's, and exhaust he described only as "loud". The car was respectable and quick for the times, running low 13's. Not too shabby for a kid, and especially for a daily driver. 

Anyhow, the moment above captures the aftermath of a floor shift install. Say what? OK, not the IMMEDIATE aftermath... You see, my dad had installed a floor shifter that fine day, and, like so mmany times that I'm sure we can all look back on and say "yup... done that!", he rushed through to get to work on time (night shift!), and we all know how shifter installs seem to go... Something ALWAYS goes a little haywire. 

Needless to say, shifting from second to third resulted in, well, nothing. Youthful thought offeered the option to just reach through the ample hole in the floorboard and grab the linkage, when the stars aligned to strengthjen the Chevy versus Ford battle, and the mighty Chevy plowed into a '63 Fairlane.  

The car was fixed, using the remains of a t-boned Bel Air hardtop, with the same car supplying the interior for this same car a bit later. The car was sold when my father entered the service, and marked a three year span of ownership in his life. We'll have to look at the '64 Impala and '66 Charger that followed at some point, too, all with somewhat better results! Granted, I've done worse myself (and with no shift linkage to blame!), and that's not the point here... It's just an interesting look back on a moment frozen in time... one of those images you don't often see. It's real life mixing with youth, hot rodding, and all of those experiences we try to teach our own young 'uns with...  

Read more and enjoy some artwork over at PROBLEM CHILD KUSTOMS STUDIO.

If there's one thing I enjoy most about cars/motorcycles/anything fast, it's the ability to completely take my mind off of anything that's bothering me. Our cars are there with us through the blood, the sweat, and the tears of our lives - and if we take care of them, our cars will be there, no questions asked. Now, sometimes our cars are of course the source of our problems, whether it be they're always breaking down, something new wrong with them everytime we turn the key, picking up paint chips through errant rocks on the freeway - I'm sure you guys can relate - but they'll still be there.

What's making me write this, however, is the return these combinations of parts give us. No matter what my mood happens to be, my meditation, if you will, is to put the windows down, find some open road, and listen to the sweet racket coming out of the tailpipes. For whatever reason, I don't think I've found anything as relieving as this yet. What's better yet is that I'm finding the more I bang up my knuckles working on something, the more hours I spend daydreaming of what I'd like to someday do to it, and the more times I look back at those pictures of when I first got it, the more I enjoy pinning the throttle and listening to that exhaust note I'm leaving behind me as a smile creeps up across my face.

Now if you'll excuse me, it's time for me to find my yoga mat - and whatever sights those miles of tarmac may bring.

dk

I started all this mess back in 93 or so when Larry Young got me fired from The Rod Factory for trying to provide some customer service.

I started very small doing mobile repair and specialized in Mustang II suspensions. I learned everything I could about that little suspension and then branched my experience into other realms. I have expert knowledge of most common IFS used in street driven automotive designs. Welding and fabricating techiques as well as some specialty niches that form the business.

Now in business serving the Phoenix Metropolitan area and beyond, we serve to build and repair high quality and very driveable hot rods and customs. Known around town as 'the' guys to take your ill handling car to get it fixed.

...there really is something inhrerently fun about cars in general. Growing up, I was always infatuated with cars. Toys, model cars, Hot Wheels cars, Matchbox cars... hang on a second.... quick moment of introspection here. Anyone else ever stop to ponder the difference between a Hot Wheels and a Matchbox car? I always felt (and I may be crazy here) as a kid, that the Matchbox cars were more "serious" cars. Replicas that were like the stockers running around town, while Hot Wheels were like the fun, rebellious cars... the hot rods of your town. Weird, perhaps, or maybe just right on track with their marketing idea... I just always played a little rougher with a Hot Wheels than a Matchbox. (oddly ironic is that, looking back, Matchbox cars always gave me some great ho rod and custom ideas... besides, they has some of the coolest colored windows... and when those boys busted out with a hot rod or custom-influenced car, they went NUTS with it.)

In any event, I was talking with the wife the other night about commercials, namely TV commercials for cars, and how they all just about suck. They've become serious, in a lot of ways... Granted, VW has their underlying humor, but, for the most part, the car commercials today all have a stodgy, buttoned-up feel.
We got on the subject of cool commercials, and by far, the greatest ever were the Nissan commercials from the nineties. Man, those were killer. Maybe it was a subconscious pondering of those commercials (which gave a solemn nod to the old Datsun days) that inspired me on a recent rendering to have fun, get loose, and throw a tip of the hat to their storied racing past... but there's one commercial from Nissan that everyone knows and loves:

click to view

...and how can you not love it? It was fun, and really played up a great image. It was a grown-up look back at your youth, playing with cars, and just inventing bizarre scenarios (especially if you had a sister... their toys always provided interesting back-drops for toy automotive-induced mayhem...)
The follow-up to that classic was just as entertaining:

click to view

In any event, I guess that my point is that even as we "grow up", we still hang on to the things that we enjoyed as kids, in some small way. While I may not have the toys I grew up with anymore, I have the memories, and I enjoy looking back on those times, as well as creating some similar memories with my kids, and taking that inspiration to the drawing board with me on each new project. I have fun doing my job, and hope it shows... Will playing with toy cars now have a similar effect on my kids? Who knows? Maybe they'll grow to become car-obsessed hot rodders, or maybe they'll just enjoy it for what it is, and go a different path with their interests (and take some cool memories along). The important thing is, we're having fun, and that's the name of this game. Go and do likeswise...

See more on my website at www.problemchildkustoms.com. 

One thing has been painfully obvious since I got my little metro, the upholstery and support in the seats sucks. As the metro is experiencing some thermostat issues, Ive decided to attack the upholstery next and began by tearing out both the front and back seats.

Now whoever reupholstered the seats before did not do a very good job. The cheap naugahyde was pulled WAY too tight and was tearing at every hog ring. Also the seams and folds were sloppy. So I start to take the pieces apart and set them aside to use as a pattern. Ive decided that after being a professional costume designer in my previous life that I would tackle the reupholstering job myself. A decision to which many respond with a skeptical "Really?!? Have you ever done it before?". Well, no, but after looking at the previous work, I cant believe that I could do worse. I actually am not doubting my skills as much as I am doubting the heartiness of my sewing machine.

Taking the seats out was no big deal and other than a few mummified spiders, there were no unexpected surprises....but when I finally get down to undressing the bench seat, I discover the original black and white hounds tooth factory upholstery! Fricken' Sweet! Even though it is tattered and torn and cannot be used, its still pretty cool to see this 50 year old fabric peeking out from beneath the padding. I cut out a small bit to keep and tossed the rest. As I look at all of the pieces at my feet I begin to wonder if Ive bit off more than I can chew, but "live and learn" right? After all, I bought this car as a "do-it-myself" project and how cool will it be to say that I did in fact "do it"...so for now, Ill keep my fingers crossed and hope for the best.

I'm considering taking a couple of weeks to head up to Alaska and back next summer. Unfortunately, I don't have a bike that could do that very comfortably. The RC51 couldn't make it between gas stops. The 550 could take me alone alright, but it won't do mountains too well. The CB900F is in about a million pieces.

So, that leads me to the kawasaki dealership and their new Concours 14. Basically the ZX14 with a shaft drive and a lot of creature comforts. It's priced lower than the ST1300 and much lower than any of the comparable BMWs. It looks like the winner.

Now, i just need to figure out where to get an extra $13.8k

Anybody want to donate?

I'm a big fan of all kinds of motorcycles. From my perspective every bike has it's place. A heavy Harley cruiser and a superbike can both be fun. (Though I personally prefer leading edge technology and performance). But I have a gripe. My gripe is with Harley-Davidson, their apparent lack of ambition and a bunch of new riders that need to experience what it is really like to ride a bike.

RANT ABOUT HARLEY

First, Harley-Davidson was one among dozens of American motorcycle manufacturers that really developed what became our addiction. The motorcycle. However, they seem to have lost focus about 50 years ago as the English bikes came in and gave riders higher performance at a lower price. Though Harley was still competitive. They even brought in some low end Italian bikes called Aermachis as a small entry level Harley. Unfortunately, they didn't compete. Then the Japanese came in with determination and focus and absolutely dominated everything two wheeled.

IN THE EVENT OF BLITZKRIEG, PLAY DEAD.

So, in a move, more akin to the French than Americans. They quit. Sure there were half hearted attempts at racing. The VR1000 could have done it, but development was slow. At the end of the project they were making the type of power Ducati made at the beginning of the 916 project. So what is Harley-Davidson now? A heavy, over priced cruiser. Even Buell has abandoned Harley power plants in favor of Rotax. How could they allow that to happen? Why isn't Harley-Davidson, with it's new found wealth not trying to become the juggernaut in all things motorcycle as it once was? Why don't I see them releasing I-4 platforms, why aren't they jumping in to tangle with Ducati and their big twins? Aside from the money, how can they be satisfied at their snails pace of evolution? ( i guess I answered it myself there, huh?) I would buy an American designed, engineered and produced superbike if it were available for a price between the Japanese bikes and the Italian or German bikes. That should be pretty reasonable. I might even consider a Fischer and it's only half-American made. Harley-Davidson, where are you?? Go help Buell out and make a performance bike we can be proud of.

WILD HOGS

This leads me to my final gripe. I'm quite certain the majority of riders are not like this, but there seems to be a fair amount around.

If you've seen the Harley ad that shows a horde of identical people riding identical bikes and spouting off about individuality you know what I am talking about. There appear to be a bunch of "riders" that think living to ride is about putting a few hundred miles on a $30k full dress bike at 35 mph and riding from HD dealership to bar to dealership to buy some more HD t-shirts. Then spending hours polishing off half a day's road grime. To make the point, I actually read this in a cruiser magazine recently (I'll leave it nameless because of this rant, but if the mag. wants credit just send me a message)..

No joke.. a guy was offered a detail at the dealership when he took his '08 Dyna in for service..."I asked them if they could do it without water as I intend to keep it as dry as possible as I don't feel that bikes should be wet."

Is this serious? If you really ride bikes, you WILL get wet one day. It won't hurt the poor bike, it's a machine. When it starts to sprinkle, keep on going through it. One day experience the contrast that is the beauty of crossing the desert in a monsoon storm and seeing the clear in front of you. You will know how nice it is when the sun finally comes out and starts to warm you up and dry you out.

Do your 600 mile service yourself. You don't need to take it to a dealership like every car owner out there. Take pride in knowing your bike. If it breaks down crossing that desert, you will one day know how it feels to get back to civilization having used safety wire and duct tape to get back on the road.

Don't be scared to take your street bike to the track. You may lay it down, but that's a small price to pay for the enjoyment of riding hard. You will live more in one hot lap than most people do in their life.

Don't worry about your cellphone coverage on a trip. Don't call your friend 100 miles away to get you gas if you run out. Hitch to the next town, buy a drink and fill the bottle up with gas to get you to the next town.

Your motorcycle is not a piece of jewelry. Its a means to experience life in a distinctly different way than the other 98% of the people in this country.

So, with that. Shut up about what is the best polish to use or which shirt you should wear when you ride and RIDE. I'll stop and help you out if I see you stuck on the side of the road.

Two weeks ago I attended the annual AZRocks event put on by the Arizona chapter of the Toyota Territory Off-roaders Association.  I had heard of people travelling from New Mexico and Northern California to be there, so I figured I had better take advantage of this event since its in my backyard. 

 I arrived on Friday afternoon and set up camp, then found a group to run Lower Woodpecker with.  My truck is not built to be a rock-crawler, but it is 4wd and has the factory rear locker, so it got around in the rocks just fine.

Of course on Friday night there were camp fires, beers, and Sobe-bombs.  We got some rest and woke up Saturday morning ready to wheel.  I took a walk around the campsite and snapped a few pics of the trucks.  There was a wide range of vehicles in attendance, from brand new stock Tacomas to tubed-out truggies on 40's or larger.

We planned to go on the scenic and somewhat-IFS-challenging Martinez Canyon run.  This was my first time in Martinez Canyon, but I had heard that it was a fun trip.  We had 20 trucks and it was very cool to wheel with that many Tacomas.  We managed to turn a two hour trail into six, but had a great time doing it.  By the end of the day we were all ready for dinner and beverages.

I know it's not period correct, but it's a pretty easy engine to use 'cause of availability. It's served me well. I decided to post my 2 cents here for everyone. I don't claim to be an expert, this is just what I've found/learned. I'll enjoy seeing other opinions and success stories.

So here's what I'd look for or watch out for when using a 2.3:

1) DIS stuff, it means, NO DISTRIBUTOR! Unless you're going computer controlled, you don't want that stuff. Most later model stuff is DIS.

2) Don't go for the 2 spark plug heads, I hear theres no benefit... also I think the D port head is the best... but unless you're racing, the oval's probably just as good. There's also an aluminum head and a full ARCA racing block... Bring cash!!

3) to run a solid lift cam (that's what I have) you need to modify the head. Try to find one that's already done, depending on if you want to buy the tool to do it yourself. And the roller-follower heads are cool, but it'll be a little harder to find cams; there are alot of roller heads out there

4) STROKE IT! If you end up buying parts, instead of a finished engine, go for the chevy rods or a longer rods with shorty pistons. It's better for torque. You can pretty easily get to 2.7L. (with the Ford SVO tall deck block, you can get to 3.0L!)

5) also, try to find a 2.5L crank. You might have to get some main bearing inserts (not that expensive) but it's a cheap 200cc's! Later model Ford Rangers had the 2.5 w/o the distributor.

6) If you're gonna run an automatic, don't feel like you have to find the elusive (=pricey and often cracked) 2.3 to C4 bellhousing. The C3 I have has served me well with a shift kit and rebuild. It shifts hard. The only trouble is the stock stall converter. But, Hughes, here in AZ will build a custom converter for only about $300. By the time you buy a C4, build it and buy a higher-stall converter, I think you'll save money. I'm using a slightly modified Chevy 350 Genie shifter too (with a killer ChromedRat shift knob!). If I had room for another pedal, I'd run a manual and solve a BUNCH Of problems! NO can-do in a narrowed 27 modified.

7) The valve cover selection sucks, that's why I designed the finned one. The one on my car is the nicest of what's out there, but the last one like I have sold for $174! Try to find a chrome, stamped one, or a stock one and pinstripe it up!

8) For the intakes, you can get an Esslinger-2 barrel or Offenhauser 4 barrel one fairly easily, they come up all the time (I have an extra Esslinger). Watch what the ministock racers are running. The one I have is custom, but you can buy a similar one from Esslinger. Watch out for interference with the distributor for trick custom intakes.

9) Websites: turboford.org (mostly turbo guys, but a good crowd); esslingerengineering.com; http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/ (under 4 cylinder) those are the ones I've used. And, I just found this... http://www.ringsurf.com/ring/ford23/ its a 2.3 web ring. I'm gonna check it out. There are many other sites.

Finally, watch out for other Ford 4 banger stuff. To my knowledge, NOTHING interchanges. 2.0 stuff won't work and later model 2.3 stuff (ztec) won't fit. I've found the COOLEST valve cover, but it only fits the 2.0.

Here's my ebay searches to narrow the search for the right 2.3 parts. You still get some crap, but it's less. You should be able to cut and paste, then save the search.

("2300", ,, "2.3", ,, esslinger,, "racer walsh") -"2.3" -,autometer, -fiat, -vega, -monza, -mazda, -mercedes, -focus -aspire -topaz -probe -taurus -bronco -"f-150" -windstar -f150 -honda -chevy -(harley, headlight, light, shirt)

and

"2.3" ford -focus -aspire -topaz -probe -taurus -bronco -"f-150" -windstar -f150 -honda -chevy -(harley,headlight,,light,shirt)

I hope this is useful to someone!

Recently I recieved a coupon for a wheel alignment at a "brakes" shop for $40. My 2000 Tiburon was getting a bit shaky on the highway so I thought I would go in. As I dont have a fancy lift for my car and it would take me quite a bit longer than the 20 minutes that I would wait for them to do it, I figured it wasnt a bad deal. My passenger side brake was making some noise, so I casually asked them to check it out while it was on the lift. 30 minutes later the guy comes in with a long list of "problems" that my car was having. Seized brake caliper, paper thin brake pads, 3 hoses that needed replacing, etc etc....all for a grand total of $780!!!! What!? I came in for a $40 job and now youre telling me I need to spend almost $800 bones?!? The salesman continued on with his schpiel, making it seem as if my car would burst into a ball of flames if I left the parking lot. Having always been a skeptic of salesmen, but not being an automotive expert just yet, I called my gearhead boyfriend for confirmation of these issues. My boyfriend promptly said "get the hell out of there", and I paid for my alignment and left, supposedly taking my life in my hands, and hoping my car would make it home.

Once home, we jacked up the car and removed the tires for a closer look. The brake pads were in bad shape but not "paper thin". The brake caliper did seem like it was seized, as we couldnt get the piston to turn back into the housing...but after a few minutes we remembered the emergency brake was on (duh) and after turning the brake off, the piston screwed down just fine (a trick I suspect that they may use to "prove" that its frozen..."see, we can hardly turn it"). With a little lubricant, $30 worth of new brake pads from the local parts store, and the scraping of some of the back east rust, she was good as new. Wow. My bill went from almost $800 to $40 in one afternoon, now Im pissed! Was it because Im a woman? Was it because the look of horror showed on my face when he was explaining the "dangerous" state my car was in? Was it because most people arent educated about their vehicles and have no idea what things cost or how easy some things are to do yourself?

This incident gave me a whole new appreciation for the "do-it-yourself" mechanics out there, and for the information that I am learning by working on my own car. It also reinforces my opinions regarding vocational tech programs in high schools and how cutting them is a REALLY bad move. Ive decided that I will always do my own investigation of mechanical problems, and learn as much as I can about my vehicle, before jobbing it out to another potential financial rapist who was just waiting to prey on a seemingly "unknowing" customer, and a woman at that! Ive also decided that my future children will not be suckers. I plan on serving them with many "quality" hours with their grandpas and uncles who know a thing or two about cars, so that they will not become victims to these scams. Maybe they should demonstrate a certain level of competence with common mechanical problems before I will allow them to own and drive a car? Hell, maybe all of us should. As long as people remain ignorant, the vultures will continue to feast.

One Friday night, during one of these browsing sessions, I spot an add. What is this? A 1959 metro in Needles, CA, hasn't been on the road in 4 years but it says its in good shape and its for a really great price! My gearhead boyfriend Ryan encouraged me to take down the information, but I was reluctant...for that price it had to be junk. After much prodding, I copied down the name and number, and we continued to browse. Later, we tried multiple times to view the online add, but for some reason after that first night, we could never find the add again. In fact we couldn’t even find a listing for the same car or the same town, weird. So Ryan says, "Lets go look at it Sunday" What?!? Sunday? That’s the day after tomorrow....hmm...well, I do like road trips, I have nothing else planned, and it’s his gas so...what the hell.

As soon as the garage door opened I knew she was mine! It had to be a sign, she was green and white, just like the vintage brochure and the two matchbox cars Ryan had bought me for Christmas. It was even from the same year as the brochure too! To top it off, there was a pinup girl suicide knob in the trunk! The owner also said someone else had looked at it but turned it down (were they on crack?!?) and I jokingly said something to the owner about not having to put the add back up online, to which he replied, "I never took it off"...weird.

When we purchased the car two weeks later, the owner hands me a file folder of receipts and handbooks. I hand over the cash, we sign necessary paperwork, load the car onto the trailer and wave good bye.

When we stop for gas, I look through the folder. Inside are two of the original owners manuals from 1959 (way cool!), an original factory service manual (way cool!), receipts and catalogs for metropolitan parts dealers (sweet!) and receipts for engine work totaling $9,000 done in 1996....holy crap. Keep in mind the car had been off the road for 4 years...This guy had no idea what he had! A pretty solid car, with tons of money worth of work done to it, and he let it go for a song! Ive seen cars in similar or worse condition go for over 5K at a few car shows!

On the way back to Phoenix, we pull into a KFC for dinner and an elderly couple admires her from the window. We get our food and sit down when moments later, the elderly woman starts choking, and I have to administer the Heimlich maneuver (no kidding!). On our way out she compliments my little car and thanks me again for helping her and being in the right place at the right time. To me it is yet again, another sign that this was meant to happen. The next day I wash and buff the car by hand, and replace the water pump and fuel filter. That night I tuck myself into bed with VERY tired arms and a huge smile on my face.

March 5, 2008

New York-based artist agent Leslie Barany, working with Chris X and Kevin I. Slaughter of Scapegoat Publishing and editors George Petros and Deanna Lehman, presents…

CARNIVORA: The Dark Art of Automobiles. Published by the new Scapegoat imprint, Barany Books, CARNIVORA features work by 112 artists and writers. Advance copies of the book were unveiled at the January 12th, 2008, opening of an exhibition of the same name at ©POP Detroit Gallery. The exhibition, showcasing art from the book, ran concurrently with the Detroit International Auto Show, and has been extended till the end of March. It will then move to Los Angeles, to L’Imagerie Gallery, opening on May 3rd, scheduled to coincide with the official release of the book. CARNIVORA: The Dark Art of Automobiles will be the first exhibition at L’Imagerie Gallery’s spacious new location at 10555 Victory Boulevard, in North Hollywood.

For more information about the CARNIVORA exhibition please visit

http://www.myspace.com/lesbaranyscarnivora

The book is scheduled for release in the Spring of 2008.

CARNIVORA: The Dark Art of Automobiles

176 pgs. 8.5″ x 11″

$29.95

ISBN13 978-0-9795132-1-3

Available in Spring 2008 

What is humanity’s greatest technical achievement? Why, the automobile, of course. It changed everything. Previous punditry described the automobile’s ascent from molten metal and raw rubber into ubiquitous vehicle of dreams. The chronicle of the car fills uncountable volumes. CARNIVORA: The Dark Art of Automobiles is the latest chapter in our ongoing observations of cars, their drivers, passengers, loads, and secret histories. The art and writings herein take somewhat of a left turn vis-à-vis the rather straight-and-narrow path of automotive art and writing. Instead of focusing on the vehicle’s physicality, the art of CARNIVORA focuses on the vehicle’s psychological impact.

In an examination of the dark side of automobiles and our obsession with them, CARNIVORA features an international group of 92 artists, among them: Anthony Ausgang, John U. Abrahamson, Glenn Barr, Zdzislaw Beksinski, Trevor Brown, Gregory Brotherton, Patrick Byers, Vincent Castiglia, Joe Coleman, Coop, Bernado Corman, Robert Crumb, Jason D’Aquino, Ron English, H.R. Giger, John John Jesse, Viktor Koen, Frank Kozik, Dennis Larkins, Robert LaDuke, Tanino Liberatore, John “Crash” Matos, Mark Mothersbaugh, Stanley Mouse, Niagara, Camilo Pardo, Peter Pontiac, Pooch, J. K. Potter, Dan Quintana, J.L. Robbins, Sibylle Ruppert, Shag, Winston Smith, Hajime Sorayama, Tom Thewes, Tomi Ungerer, Brian Viveros, Keith Weesner, Robert Williams and Chet Zar, and texts by 22 authors, among them: Jennifer Blowdryer, Steven Blush, Harlan Ellison, Peter H. Gilmore, Jacaeber Kastor, Joseph Mauceri, Carlo McCormick, William F. Nolan, George Petros, Norman Spinrad, Pet Silvia and Chris Stein.

For the complete list of contributors to the CARNIVORA book please visit                

www.BaranyBooks.com 

For information on ordering the book, please visit

www.ScapegoatPublishing.com 

Us gals need some really cool shirts and accesories to shop for at these shows that we go to.  Whether you are just goin to be with your significant others or goin to a show because you LOVE it, you need some cool stuff to buy!

My girlfriend and I always find when we go to the shows, there are very few vendors out there that sell really kick ass shirts and accesories.  We decided that it is time for us to change that!  You will soon see a new line coming out from htrdvxn and roddrgal and I hope everyone will be just excited as us!

Oh, you ask what the name of the line will be???  Just wait.....Have patience grasshopper...I think it will go over well.  This line will be for women only, but I guarantee the guys will be buying them for their wives!!

I will keep you posted, as everything is in the works!

Hotrod Vixen 

When it comes to the Ford falcon station wagon, the "two door is better" mantra that is seemingly very prevalent these days (and yesterday) does not apply in my opinion.  I actually looked for and wanted a four-door! 

I believe the lines are better on the four-door.  The incremental sizing of the side window openings from front to rear art example of this.

see how the side glass gets proportionately larger as you move toward the rear on the four-door?

The two-door wagon gives you the long-short-long look, as well as nonrelational proportions in the sizes.  It's also cool on the four-door, how the win-wing concept is repeated in reverse.  You will need to run a large diameter rim and tire combination however, so that the four-door wagon doesn't appear too long.  Start looking at other dimensional aspects and you'll notice that the four-door is simply more balanced. (IE, the space between the rear of the front door and the beginning of the rear wheel opening)

The longer roof on the four-door also makes the top appear lower, especially at the front windshield.  On the two door the roof almost appears to slope upward, toward the front windshield.  This is probably an optical illusion caused by the nonproportional window sizes, but worth noting.

Four doors are  also much more versatile and practical in the everyday world as well.  These cars make a great daily driver project.  Build one of these babies instead of buying the next Camry or Honda!  Hurry!  Because the four doors are still cheap! 

:-)

Do you have any information about this car? It was my dad's and I'd really like to know what happened to it.

Thank you!

I consider myself a Experimental Photographer, I love to shoot what I find interesting and not just one thing or subject.

Born in northern Cali (1968) and raised in Anchorage, Alaska and now residing in Scottsdale, Arizona. I am a residential solar system designer, electrician specializing in lighting controls and automation, and a part time student. I use to run two on-line gaming servers for Unreal Tournament 99 and 04: Fragmistyk [Dead_Again or Dynazty ROK]. But now I'm into Photography, I bought a Olympus C8080 WZ the Summer of 2005 and in Summer 2007 I got the E510 and in the spring of 08 I went to the E-3. I love the great outdoors, Cars, Trucks, Bikes (mainly Choppers), and my line of work, they all give me a great canvas to work with. I also try to live for the environment - living a sustainable lifestyle - reduce, reuse, renew, recycle, & A big 80's Hair-METAL fan ....\,,/

Dog is my Co-pilot!

Thanks for stoping by for a visit....ROK-ON...

My Gear:

35MM Budweiser Can
Nikon coolpix 5200
Olympus C8080 WZ
Olympus E-510
Olympus E-3
Zuiko Digital 11-22mm f1:2.8-3.5
Zuiko Digital 14-40mm f1:3.5-5.6
Zuiko Digital 40-150mm f1:4-5.6
Zuiko Digital 50-200mm F2.8-3.5 SWD
Olympus FL-36 Flash
Manfroto Tripod and head
Lowepro dryZone backpack

Please check out my Favorite Links to find more of my work.

Paul G. Swanson

__________________
If it Moves, I Shoot!!

Keep the pedal down..........................CYA!!