2011 Mild to Wild Car Show Kicks off the Northwest Season
April 19, 2011 by MJacobs · Leave a Comment
Mild to Wild Car Show , Puyallup,WA.
We don’t have the weather like California , so when we have a custom car show this early in the year is kinda of a bonus!
The Mild to Wild Car Show has been around for 20 years and recently return to the Puyallup Fair and Events Center after many years at the Tacoma Dome. The was actually the car show’s original starting location back in 1989. This year it was inside three of the buildings at the Fair grounds, unlike the Gooduys Show that takes over the inside and outside of the complex. Not a real big show, but had some really cool customs from the northwest.

Check out this Gold 1932 Ford 3 Window coupe wtih a Chevrolet 572, From Ravensdale, Washington.
Here is some real history “The Orange Crate” 1932 Ford Sedan all steel, Built by Bob Tindle from Portland,Oregon. It made the cover of Hot Rod two times 1960 and again in 1962.

In 1963 the Revell Company created a 1/25th scale model of the sedan. Which you can still buy, they released it.

It would turn 10.60 in the quarter mile back in the day. It is now owned by the Gord Family.
Look at this engine , just a work of art. It’s only time ,money and a lot of hard work. Now I wonder where I can get my own model kit of this car?
Here is a cool flame job on a 1941 Willys .
A nice vintage looking 1933 Plymouth coupe , 2 inch chopped top and channeled 6 inches. 1955 Chrysler powered, 833 4 speed with a 8 inch ford rear. Custom made 1937 Ford Truck grill to finish it off. Built and owned by John and Linda Dixon.
I’m a really big fan of skulls, and I thought this was really cool. Created by Josh Jones.
This 1969 Plymouth GTX is a real 70′s show car. “Daze of Wine and Roses” was originally shown under the name of THE ROSE.
The car’s first show was in Seattle in 1973. From 1973-1983 THE ROSE (gold in color) was shown across the US and featured in Oakland in 1980,1981 and 1982.
The last show was Calgary, Alberta, Canada in 1983.
THE ROSE retired as the 16th highest rated car in ISCA events.
Ok… now we can have a drink.
Jake
Hot Rod Steering Linkage Install How-to
November 21, 2010 by WelderSeries · 4 Comments
How to: Hot Rod Steering Linkage
This is a quick how-to from my buddy DW over at WelderSeries.com. Welder Series has some great welding tips and suspension info published regularly. DW’s got a great sense of humor and is a talented welder so you’re sure to enjoy and learn something. Check out this Steering Linkage install for his 1932 Ford Coupe project:

I was hoping to use only two u-joints for this car, but after mocking it up and finding that the shaft is too close to the header, it’ll have to be three. I played around (see the next few pictures) with extending the input shaft on the Mullins box, but all that did was increase the angle on the lower u-joint. We’re using all aluminum joints and shafts from Borgeson. These are amazingly light! I forecast a 2hp gain over steel systems. Just joking.



Now I had to decide where I wanted the shaft to sit in relation to the frame. Since it’s going to be an open hood car, I decided to tuck the steering in behind the header a bit. I think it will be less noticeable than bringing it right over to the frame rail from the column. We’ll see… you decide.

Since I’m using three joints, a support bearing (or Rod End) is a necessity. Measure from the rail to the center of the shaft where you want the bearing. I’m going to put it right beside the center u-joint, to hide the splines I was left with on the lower shaft. If you’re forced to use a three joint system, buy the joints you’ll need, then use a broom handle or some 3/4″ dowel to mock up the shaft lengths. Or, you can use a double ‘D’ shaft which you buy in either 18″ or 36″ lengths, and cut it to fit. The splined shafts come in 2″ increments from 4″ to longer than you’ll ever need.
Making the Rod End Support


I didn’t want any threads showing on the rod end when it was installed, so I had to do some measuring. I needed to know how long the mounting tube I was going to make should be in order to cover all the threads and keep the steering shaft where I wanted it. So, I measured from the frame to the near side of the shaft, and added 3/8″ to get a dimension to the center. Then I measured from the center of the rod end bearing to the end of the threads so I knew if I had to trim any of the threads off. Conveniently, I didn’t. Next, I measured from the nut to where I knew the frame was based on my first measurement. Make sure you measure to the far side of any angle. We now carry a 1″ OD tube with 3/4-16 threads for this purpose: #219600


The rod end couldn’t come straight off the frame because the angle was too much for the bearing. So
I just ground a corner off the tube, and it will be welded to the frame.

Oh yeah, I got the rad shell and the grille insert installed. The front end will be down about 1-1/2″ or 2″, so don’t you worry about a thing.
Check back at WelderSeries.com for more info on this 1932 Ford Coupe build.
Ford Falcon Gasser – Nailed by Chuckles Garage
September 6, 2010 by Hechtspeed · 5 Comments
Straight Axle Ford Falcon Gasser

Meet the Chuckles Garage “Strange Bird” 1962 Ford Falcon Futura A/GS drag car. This car started out as a $200 Craigslist beater and through some odd chain of events, became the “Strange Bird”. MyRideisMe.com stumbled on Scotty Birdsall, owner and chief ornithologist at Chuckles Garage, a full service fab shop in Santa Rosa, CA. In Scotty’s words, here’s more info on this wicked Ford Falcon and what hits you first, the blown 401 Buick Nailhead:
“The ‘bird’s powered by a Littlefield supercharged Buick 401 Nailhead originally in a 1960′s drag boat. The Nailhead sports a shop-fabbed blower manifold, custom pistons & rods, a wild Comp Cams bumpstick and lifters, custom valve springs and hi-flow valves, mild port work, custom pushrods, custom headers made in-house, vintage Weiand valve covers, dual Buick Wildcat Rochester 4 Jets that were modified for use with the blower with custom linkage, Nicson front cover/engine mount, custom motor plate, custom oil pan, and is backed by a built Buick ST400 transmission from a 1965 Riviera.”
Can you say CUSTOM!!!???
Can’t wait to hear what a blown Buick 401 Nailhead sounds like? Me either:
Scotty continues… “Front suspension is an un-dropped straight axle with custom made two position shackles and panhard bar. Rear suspension consists of stock leaf springs with custom 66″ long heavy wall ladder bars. Rear axle is a Lincoln Versailles 9″ unit with 4.56 gears. Tires are Hurst Racing Super Cushions in front, and Hurst 30×10 Piecrust slicks in the back. Wheels are Vintage American Racing Magnesium spindle mounts up front (no front brakes) and vintage Shelby Cal 500′s in the rear.
The interior’s sparce consisting of bucket seats set back almost to the rear seat with a custom gauge panel filled with a Sun Super tach, and vintage Stewart Warner oil, temp, amp.”
“This is a period correct exhibition car, so it does not conform to current NHRA spec. The car is built to the 1966 NHRA rule book. It has the maximum crank center height of 25″ and near the maximum amount of engine set back as well. Maximum setback was determined by the wheelbase. You are allowed 10% of the wheelbase measured from the axle centerline to the first sparkplug hole. This engine is set back 10″ from axle center. To adjust the distributor, all you need to do is stick your hand through the stock speaker location in the dash! haha, that’s RAD! The car sports a full .120 wall frame that is tied in to the .120 wall roll cage. It’s very sturdy.”

Here’s a picture of what the Bird might look like with its finished graphics scheme. Looks sharp!
“When the car is finished it will be painted in white and red, with all the period trimmings such as gold leaf lettering and water transfer decals. All work on the Strange bird is being done at Chuckles Garage.”
Here’s a shot inside Chuckles Garage. Nice to see all the appropriate safety gear in place. Safety is no funny business! (Get it, ’cause its the “Chuckles Garage”? haha, I try…)
Talk about “backseat driver”, look how far back the driver sits. All in the name of weight transfer! The 60′s Gassers were so cool! It’s awesome to see a car built to the old rules like this Ford Falcon. I wish more shops built historic machines like this. Respect.
I really like this view from under the front end of the Strange Bird. (Except for the fact it’s on a trailer instead of flying free!) These uncollected-dust-storming white headers look like they could lift the front end of the car off the ground with a solid mash of the Go-Pedal! Note the heavy-walled 4-story ladder bars.
Another interesting view where you can see the driver’s (backseat) position. You’ll also see the rear mounted radiator with punched holes in the decklid to make it breathe. I’ll take a metal, stock bodied Gasser over the Fiberglass fliptop versions… how about you?
Here’s a parting shot of the Falcon Gasser gettin’ on it hard out behind the shop. Check out the video below showing progress from April 2010. Scotty’s been busy!
To see more of Chuckles Garage builds, check out his Hot Rod Fab shop here, or get a taste for what Scotty likes and builds Chuckles Garage Blog here.
I couldn’t resist showing more pics of the build and a few details we mentioned in this story. All photos my Mitchell De Moor (Gambino Kustoms) and Scotty Birdsall (Chuckles Garage)

















