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/Garage/blueovalz

blueovalz
blueovalz
Little Rock, AR, USA

Joined: 07/28/2007

My Lifestyles:

Datsun 240Z "BlueOvalZ"
BlueOvalZ
Datsun 280Z "Red75Z"
Red75Z
Ford Mustang "66 Mustang"
66 Mustang
Manta Mirage "Mclaren M8B Replica"
Mclaren M8B Replica

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Datsun 240Z "BlueOvalZ"

 
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Drivetrain:

Ford 289 which is very soon being replaced with a 383 (Not the Chevy, but the Ford 351W stroker version). Home-made headers, AFR 205 heads, and the typical go-fast internals. The engine is solidly mounted (along with transmission) into the chassis making is part of the chassis which greatly increased the chassis rigidity.

Transmission is a WC T-5 pulling to a Datsun R200 differential using Porsche 930 CV jointed half-shafts. Currently, at the rear wheels, the 289 dynos at 299 HP, and 260 lb/ft at 7200 RPM. It has a lot of RPM potential, but now I'm looking for more torque, and hence the reason for installing the 383. Hopefully, it will reach my design of mid 500 HP and torque fiqures at around 6500 RPM. The new heads, and almost 1" more stroke should get me close. 


Chassis:
The chassis is still basic Datsun equipment. The front crossmember has been moved forward 1.25" to increase the caster for an improved camber curve. This meant that the T/C rod had to be increased in length as well. The inner bushings have been replaced with spherical rod ends on the front, with fabrication just completed for replacing all eight bushing on the rear suspension with 3/4" spherical bearings. The rear uprights and mustache bar have been replaced with a single 1/4" aluminum plate that mounts the differential, suspension, and swaybar all on one piece. The rear bushings are held independently onto this plate, separated by a turnbuckle, to allow toe adjustment of the rear wheels. Spring rate is 225 F/260 R using coilover set-up and Koni shocks.
Wheels & Tires:

17 X 11 Billet Specialties wheels with 315/35R17 tires an all four corners (DOT set-up).


Body:
Body is a home-made fiberglass creation painted in a GM Tahoe blue w/ Wimbleton white stripes
Interior:

Fabricated out of fiberglass from a once fully gutted race interior.


1971 Datsun 240Z that became a divorce recovery project. After dropping the SBF engine into the car, I found that the high...

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Poor man's LS1 ITB

I want to share a project in which I've fabricated a fairly economic alternative to the hugely expensive aftermarket ITB hardware for the LS series motors.

Economic aftermarket ITB options for this motor will run about $3600 and up for hardware alone (does not include electronic controls) and is usually designed for under-hood clearances (short, or laid on their sides). So I looked for a cheap alternative that would provide the traditional upright-runner appearance (for my specific application).

The parts I started with are:

Intake Manifold - Edelbrock Pro-Flow XT intake manifold. This is an 8-runner common plenum intake that is very tall and resembles an EFI version of a tunnel ram. Below is a couple of photos of the intake on the motor. The lower photo is a concept drawing of what I envision when this project is finished.

screenshot245_400

screenshot279_400 

screenshot247_400

ITBs - Chrysler LHS throttle bodies. The 3.5L motor has two 48mm throttle bodies manufactured by Holley that are fairly straight-forward in that they lack most of the "garbage" that a typical manufacturer's throttle body contains. The box of throttle bodies bellow cost about $200 at the local pick-n-pull.

screenshot277_400

screenshot278_400

Materials to Put it All Together - various aluminum plates, screws, bolts, shaft couplers, etc.

Cost Comparison - With ITBs mounted, connected, and on the motor (no linkage thus far, total cost is less that $800 as compared to $2600 for comparable aftermarket set-up.

 

Let's get started!

First thing that had to be done was to modify the cheaper $400 Edelbrock intake (brand new, so this took some courage to put it on the table saw and start cutting it into pieces) to accept ITBs. This was done by cutting the intake in half through the center of the plenum. This way, all the runners were still rigidly held in place both at the base and at the top of the runners: 

screenshot261_400

Then I cut a wedge out of each runner near the base so as to make the runners more vertical and simultaniously separate the left and right banks from each other:

screenshot262_400 

Once the banks were straightened out, they were welded up and the top was then cut off the runners exposing each individual runner:

screenshot274_400

Next a top mounting plate was welded over each runner. The plate then allows an adapter plate (for any variety of Weber based, or ITB hardware to be mounted) to be bolted onto the left/right banks of runners:

screenshot275_400

The Adapter plate had to be machined (drill press and some careful measurements) to transition the round ITB ports to the semi-rectangular LS1 intake ports. This was 3/4" aluminum plate that had the OEM Chrysler throttle body studs screwed into the plate to help index/align each ITB to their respective holes:

 screenshot276_400

screenshot280_400

The ITB adapter plate is then bolted onto the runner banks:

screenshot259_400

screenshot260_400

Shaft couplers are used to connect the individual ITBs. These came from McMaster-Carr. The linkage to active the shafts was fabricated for a previous Weber 48 IDA set-up, but never used:

 03a4baa00dfbe751b6d74541a9d1d317

Tuning stacks are then fabricated to provide performance as well as aesthetic improvements in order for this induction system resemble what was used in the original M8B McLaren CanAm car:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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events here
  • Exterior
  • Building the Rear Panels
  • Interior
  • Engine and Engine Bay
  • Swapping the 289 for a 383
  • Transmission and Driveshaft
  • Differential Mount (Front)
  • Porsche Axles
  • Suspension
  • Brakes
  • Wheels

4 different front brake set-ups

I started by swapping the front OEM non-vented 240Z rotors with the vented 300ZX rotors using 280ZX calipers. This lasted for several years and worked very well. Then I swapped (seen here) the 300ZX rotors (right photo) to '87 Supra front rotors and calipers (left photo). The Supra rotors were almost 1" larger for a total diameter of almost 12" as compared to the 300ZX of 11".

Supra vs 300ZX rotor size

A comparison of the '84 300ZX rotor on top of the '87 Supra rotor.

Corvette C5 conversion

After running the Supra rotors up front for several years, I decided my last set-up would be front C5 rotors with aftermarket 4 piston calipers.

Corvette C5 conversion

An adapter plate was welded onto the Datsun OEM strut so that the Outlaw 4 piston calipers could be attached.

Corvette C5 conversion

Assembly of the C5 rotor (required the center hub hole to be opened up, and 4 holes drilled for mounting onto the Z hub.

Corvette C5 conversion

Outlaw 4000 series caliper using 1 3/4" pistons. Later I painted them red.

Corvette C5 conversion

The assembly inside a wheel to ensure clearance is good. And it was.

Corvette C5 conversion

Front brakes using the C5 rotors as seen installed on the car.

Rear brakes

I initially swapped out the OEM drum brakes to the 300ZX front rotors with 280ZX caliper in back just as I did up front. With the wider tires in back, and more rear weight distribution designed into the car, this worked after the installation of a proportioning valve.

Rear Maxima caliper bracket

This OEM bracket mouned behind the wheel flange was modified to hold the 280ZX front calipers.

Supra rotors

After I installed the C5 rotors up front, I decide my last change in back would be to install the '87 front Supra rotors at the rear, and then use the Outlaw 3000 series 4 piston calipers on them. I began by fabricating a caliiper mounting bracket out of 3/8" plate steel.

Supra rotors

After cutting the center hole, I used a Sawzall for the rest

Supra rotors

Then I copied it onto the plate to make the opposite side caliper bracket.

Supra rotors

Drilled the caliper holes, and then welded it all together.

Supra rotors

The outlaw caliper (1 1/4" pistons) was painted red. This setup works very well, and due to the piston size difference between front and rear, I no longer need the proportioning valve.

Supra rotors

View of assembly on the car. The Z now has 13" rotors up front, and 12" rotors at the rear.

 
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Comments:
semel1
01-20-2011 11:00 PM
very cool garage. The work you have done is amazing
Truxx1956
08-11-2010 7:55 PM
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You da man!!!!!!
Wicked58
01-10-2010 2:56 PM
wow, just amazing! Congratulations!
ROLLINGCOUNTRY
08-30-2008 11:33 PM
AWESOME JUST FLAT OUT AWESOME..LOTS AND LOTS OF HOURS BUT TRUE ART MY FRIEND......COOKIE
Grampa131
07-31-2008 11:47 AM
Beutiful Z........
falconizer_62
07-10-2008 12:43 PM
amazing work! That blue Z is phenomenal. you are a true craftsman.
bandit
02-17-2008 11:20 AM
VERY COOL!!! I enjoyed viewing your build progress, and the car looks very sharp!
pikesan
12-26-2007 2:10 PM
The work you've done is AMAZING!! Thanks for making one of the best garages at MyRideisMe!
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