Flag this garage as inappropriateDatsun 240Z "BlueOvalZ"
Ford 289 which is very soon being replaced with a 383 (Not the Chevy, but the Ford 351W stroker version). Home-made headers, AFR 205 heads, and the typical go-fast internals. The engine is solidly mounted (along with transmission) into the chassis making is part of the chassis which greatly increased the chassis rigidity.
Transmission is a WC T-5 pulling to a Datsun R200 differential using Porsche 930 CV jointed half-shafts. Currently, at the rear wheels, the 289 dynos at 299 HP, and 260 lb/ft at 7200 RPM. It has a lot of RPM potential, but now I'm looking for more torque, and hence the reason for installing the 383. Hopefully, it will reach my design of mid 500 HP and torque fiqures at around 6500 RPM. The new heads, and almost 1" more stroke should get me close.
Chassis:
The chassis is still basic Datsun equipment. The front crossmember has been moved forward 1.25" to increase the caster for an improved camber curve. This meant that the T/C rod had to be increased in length as well. The inner bushings have been replaced with spherical rod ends on the front, with fabrication just completed for replacing all eight bushing on the rear suspension with 3/4" spherical bearings. The rear uprights and mustache bar have been replaced with a single 1/4" aluminum plate that mounts the differential, suspension, and swaybar all on one piece. The rear bushings are held independently onto this plate, separated by a turnbuckle, to allow toe adjustment of the rear wheels. Spring rate is 225 F/260 R using coilover set-up and Koni shocks.
Wheels & Tires:
17 X 11 Billet Specialties wheels with 315/35R17 tires an all four corners (DOT set-up).
Body:
Body is a home-made fiberglass creation painted in a GM Tahoe blue w/ Wimbleton white stripes
Interior:
Fabricated out of fiberglass from a once fully gutted race interior.
1971 Datsun 240Z that became a divorce recovery project. After dropping the SBF engine into the car, I found that the high...
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Rear Toe Adjustment
The Z has no provision for adjusting the rear toe. To allow this, I fabricated a device that can move the rear control arm pivot inward or outward. This was achieved by cutting the OEM link between the two pivots and inserting a turnbucket between the two halves.
Rear Toe Adjustment
This shows the completed part with appropriate reinforcement to keep all parts rigid and secure during and after adjustment.
Rear Toe Adjustment
Final pieces used in the toe adjuster. The two plates are used to sandwich the adjustable link to the pivot brackets.
Rear CA modification
The rear Z control arms use rubber bushings as the pivot points. My goal was to replace these with spherical bearing on the inner pivots, and spherical rod ends on the outer pivots. To do this I had to cut off the tube used to hold the rubber bushing, and drive a 3/4" long shank bolt (head was cut off) into the remaining pivot tube.
Rear CA modification
I drew up some mechanical drawing for a local machine shop to use in turning the new spherical bearing retainers that will now replace the rubber bushings.
Rear CA modification
These new retainers now will bolt onto the car using the OEM rubber bushing retainers.
Rear CA modification
Comparison of the rubber bushing and the new steel 3/4" spherical bearing retainer.
Rear CA modification
The outer bushing will be replaced by 3/4" rod ends. To do this the OEM bushing tubes must be removed.
Rear CA modification
To ensure everything is welded back in perfect alignment, I fabricated a jig to hold everything in place as I welded the parts back together.
Rear CA modification
Complete fabrication of the control arm replacing the outer bushings with rod ends, and the inner bushing with spherical bearings.
Rear CA modification
Close-up of the outer rod end modification with the strut installed onto the control arm.
Rear CA modification
Close-up of the outer rod end modification with the strut installed onto the control arm.
Replacing the OEM Uprights
The two OEM steel uprights (which positions the rear inner control arm bushings) were replaced by this single, home fabricated, aluminum plate.
Replacing the OEM Uprights
This plate also replaces the "mustache" bar the crosses behind the OEM uprights, and acts as the rear mount of the differential.
Replacing the OEM Uprights
This plate also acts as a mounting point for a rear mounted sway bar, and also replaces the "transverse" link that ties the two OEM uprights together.
Replacing the OEM Uprights
This is the plate as viewed from the differential side, attached to the rear subframe from above. The suspension control arms are attached, but the differential is removed.
Replacing the OEM Uprights
Thus, this plate replaces 3 parts and performs 4 functions in lieu of many OEM pieces.
Replacing the OEM Uprights
This old photo shows the plate fully installed with the toe-adjuster in place, the sway bar mounted, the differential mounted (two center bolts), and the rear suspension pick-up points attached (on either side of the differential. Goal replace all of the OEM parts with a more rigid, light-weight member.
