My Ride Is Me - A community for car lovers
  • Home
  • Blog
  • Pictures
  • Members
  • Shop
  • Forum
  • Dig it
    • Killer Garages
    • Past Newsletters
    • Your Feedback
  • About Us
    • Contact Us
    • Advertise here
      • Ad Success
    • Editorial Calendar
    • Jobs
      • Hot Rod Blogger
      • Photographers
  • Help?
  •  
  • Search 
  • Sign up
  • Login
  • Search for Rides
  • Search for Members
Login  Password   

Remind password

/Garage/blueovalz

blueovalz
blueovalz
Little Rock, AR, USA

Joined: 07/28/2007

My Lifestyles:

Datsun 240Z "BlueOvalZ"
BlueOvalZ
Datsun 280Z "Red75Z"
Red75Z
Ford Mustang "66 Mustang"
66 Mustang
Manta Mirage "Mclaren M8B Replica"
Mclaren M8B Replica

Flag as Inappropriate Flag this garage as inappropriate

Datsun 240Z "BlueOvalZ"

 
  • MyRideisMe
  • My News
  • My Blog
  • Favorite Links
Drivetrain:

Ford 289 which is very soon being replaced with a 383 (Not the Chevy, but the Ford 351W stroker version). Home-made headers, AFR 205 heads, and the typical go-fast internals. The engine is solidly mounted (along with transmission) into the chassis making is part of the chassis which greatly increased the chassis rigidity.

Transmission is a WC T-5 pulling to a Datsun R200 differential using Porsche 930 CV jointed half-shafts. Currently, at the rear wheels, the 289 dynos at 299 HP, and 260 lb/ft at 7200 RPM. It has a lot of RPM potential, but now I'm looking for more torque, and hence the reason for installing the 383. Hopefully, it will reach my design of mid 500 HP and torque fiqures at around 6500 RPM. The new heads, and almost 1" more stroke should get me close. 


Chassis:
The chassis is still basic Datsun equipment. The front crossmember has been moved forward 1.25" to increase the caster for an improved camber curve. This meant that the T/C rod had to be increased in length as well. The inner bushings have been replaced with spherical rod ends on the front, with fabrication just completed for replacing all eight bushing on the rear suspension with 3/4" spherical bearings. The rear uprights and mustache bar have been replaced with a single 1/4" aluminum plate that mounts the differential, suspension, and swaybar all on one piece. The rear bushings are held independently onto this plate, separated by a turnbuckle, to allow toe adjustment of the rear wheels. Spring rate is 225 F/260 R using coilover set-up and Koni shocks.
Wheels & Tires:

17 X 11 Billet Specialties wheels with 315/35R17 tires an all four corners (DOT set-up).


Body:
Body is a home-made fiberglass creation painted in a GM Tahoe blue w/ Wimbleton white stripes
Interior:

Fabricated out of fiberglass from a once fully gutted race interior.


1971 Datsun 240Z that became a divorce recovery project. After dropping the SBF engine into the car, I found that the high...

Read More...
 
no links found
no news found
Poor man's LS1 ITB

I want to share a project in which I've fabricated a fairly economic alternative to the hugely expensive aftermarket ITB hardware for the LS series motors.

Economic aftermarket ITB options for this motor will run about $3600 and up for hardware alone (does not include electronic controls) and is usually designed for under-hood clearances (short, or laid on their sides). So I looked for a cheap alternative that would provide the traditional upright-runner appearance (for my specific application).

The parts I started with are:

Intake Manifold - Edelbrock Pro-Flow XT intake manifold. This is an 8-runner common plenum intake that is very tall and resembles an EFI version of a tunnel ram. Below is a couple of photos of the intake on the motor. The lower photo is a concept drawing of what I envision when this project is finished.

screenshot245_400

screenshot279_400 

screenshot247_400

ITBs - Chrysler LHS throttle bodies. The 3.5L motor has two 48mm throttle bodies manufactured by Holley that are fairly straight-forward in that they lack most of the "garbage" that a typical manufacturer's throttle body contains. The box of throttle bodies bellow cost about $200 at the local pick-n-pull.

screenshot277_400

screenshot278_400

Materials to Put it All Together - various aluminum plates, screws, bolts, shaft couplers, etc.

Cost Comparison - With ITBs mounted, connected, and on the motor (no linkage thus far, total cost is less that $800 as compared to $2600 for comparable aftermarket set-up.

 

Let's get started!

First thing that had to be done was to modify the cheaper $400 Edelbrock intake (brand new, so this took some courage to put it on the table saw and start cutting it into pieces) to accept ITBs. This was done by cutting the intake in half through the center of the plenum. This way, all the runners were still rigidly held in place both at the base and at the top of the runners: 

screenshot261_400

Then I cut a wedge out of each runner near the base so as to make the runners more vertical and simultaniously separate the left and right banks from each other:

screenshot262_400 

Once the banks were straightened out, they were welded up and the top was then cut off the runners exposing each individual runner:

screenshot274_400

Next a top mounting plate was welded over each runner. The plate then allows an adapter plate (for any variety of Weber based, or ITB hardware to be mounted) to be bolted onto the left/right banks of runners:

screenshot275_400

The Adapter plate had to be machined (drill press and some careful measurements) to transition the round ITB ports to the semi-rectangular LS1 intake ports. This was 3/4" aluminum plate that had the OEM Chrysler throttle body studs screwed into the plate to help index/align each ITB to their respective holes:

 screenshot276_400

screenshot280_400

The ITB adapter plate is then bolted onto the runner banks:

screenshot259_400

screenshot260_400

Shaft couplers are used to connect the individual ITBs. These came from McMaster-Carr. The linkage to active the shafts was fabricated for a previous Weber 48 IDA set-up, but never used:

 03a4baa00dfbe751b6d74541a9d1d317

Tuning stacks are then fabricated to provide performance as well as aesthetic improvements in order for this induction system resemble what was used in the original M8B McLaren CanAm car:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Read More...
events here
  • Exterior
  • Building the Rear Panels
  • Interior
  • Engine and Engine Bay
  • Swapping the 289 for a 383
  • Transmission and Driveshaft
  • Differential Mount (Front)
  • Porsche Axles
  • Suspension
  • Brakes
  • Wheels

Racing interior

Completely gutted interior with instruments mounted onto the steering column.

Racing interior

Completely gutted interior with instruments mounted onto the steering column.

Racing interior

Completely gutted interior with instruments mounted onto the steering column.

Custom instrument pods

Fiberglass pods were fabricated for each gauge. The pods were created by laying up glass over PVC pipe, removing it, and then bonding plates at both ends of the cylinder. The cylinder was shaped so that the top had an extended lip to shade from windshield sunlight. The the cylinder was bonded onto a saddle that straddles the lower windshield crossbar of the cage.

Custom instrument pods

A cylinder was fabricated for each gauge, and each gauge was mounted so that it pointed toward the drivers head, thus each gauge was mounted at a different angle on the cage tube.

Custom instrument pod cover

After the cylinders (pods) were finished, I fabricated a cover for the pods that that they had the appearance of a single dash assembly.

Custom instrument pod cover

The cover can be removed and simply lays on top of the pods.

Custom instrument pods

Pods and cover are primed for a black finish coat.

Speedo and Tach

The center of the dash would house the speedometer and tachometer. Basically the same method was used to create the faceplate for these two gauges.

Pod cover

The pod cover was sprayed with truck bed liner. I experimented with the spray distance to achieve the desired texture (close made the coating wet and smooth, distant made the coating rough and dry).

Dash parts

A facia was needed for the area under the pods, and a surface to mount the speedo/tach faceplate (left long piece in the photo).

Dash parts

The console part were needed as well and this photo shows the center of the dash in front of the shifter. A push-button starter, fan, fuel pump, and ignition switch were added onto the front of this panel.

Dash parts

Pod cover (finished)

Dash parts

Console parts

The under-dash sides were created that covered the area over the transmission tunnel under the dash.

Dash parts

The under-dash parts that were fabricated to screw onto the cage bars.

Dash parts

Finished interior. It can be disassembled in 10 minutes.

 
  • Build Progress
  • My How-To's
  • Ride Comments
No builds yet
No How-To's found
Comments:
semel1
01-20-2011 11:00 PM
very cool garage. The work you have done is amazing
Truxx1956
08-11-2010 7:55 PM
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You da man!!!!!!
Wicked58
01-10-2010 2:56 PM
wow, just amazing! Congratulations!
ROLLINGCOUNTRY
08-30-2008 11:33 PM
AWESOME JUST FLAT OUT AWESOME..LOTS AND LOTS OF HOURS BUT TRUE ART MY FRIEND......COOKIE
Grampa131
07-31-2008 11:47 AM
Beutiful Z........
falconizer_62
07-10-2008 12:43 PM
amazing work! That blue Z is phenomenal. you are a true craftsman.
bandit
02-17-2008 11:20 AM
VERY COOL!!! I enjoyed viewing your build progress, and the car looks very sharp!
pikesan
12-26-2007 2:10 PM
The work you've done is AMAZING!! Thanks for making one of the best garages at MyRideisMe!
Only registered members can leave comments.
 
  • Crew (3)
  • Cool Rides (0)
  • Random Rides
RBs_Titan
pikesan
 
fine art, hot rod art,  motorcycle, oil painting
 
Free Speedway Catalog
 
custom garage

 
Custom Rendering & Pinstriping; hot rods and kustoms
 

 
Chevy hot rods and muscle cars
 
Hot Rod Pinups

 
Quality Rubber Parts Weatherstripping

© 2007-2011 MyRideisMe.com - All Rights Reserved. | Contact Us | Advertise With Us

Nissan Car Buying Guide