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/Garage/blueovalz

blueovalz
blueovalz
Little Rock, AR, USA

Joined: 07/28/2007

My Lifestyles:

Datsun 240Z "BlueOvalZ"
BlueOvalZ
Datsun 280Z "Red75Z"
Red75Z
Ford Mustang "66 Mustang"
66 Mustang
Manta Mirage "Mclaren M8B Replica"
Mclaren M8B Replica

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Datsun 240Z "BlueOvalZ"

 
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Drivetrain:

Ford 289 which is very soon being replaced with a 383 (Not the Chevy, but the Ford 351W stroker version). Home-made headers, AFR 205 heads, and the typical go-fast internals. The engine is solidly mounted (along with transmission) into the chassis making is part of the chassis which greatly increased the chassis rigidity.

Transmission is a WC T-5 pulling to a Datsun R200 differential using Porsche 930 CV jointed half-shafts. Currently, at the rear wheels, the 289 dynos at 299 HP, and 260 lb/ft at 7200 RPM. It has a lot of RPM potential, but now I'm looking for more torque, and hence the reason for installing the 383. Hopefully, it will reach my design of mid 500 HP and torque fiqures at around 6500 RPM. The new heads, and almost 1" more stroke should get me close. 


Chassis:
The chassis is still basic Datsun equipment. The front crossmember has been moved forward 1.25" to increase the caster for an improved camber curve. This meant that the T/C rod had to be increased in length as well. The inner bushings have been replaced with spherical rod ends on the front, with fabrication just completed for replacing all eight bushing on the rear suspension with 3/4" spherical bearings. The rear uprights and mustache bar have been replaced with a single 1/4" aluminum plate that mounts the differential, suspension, and swaybar all on one piece. The rear bushings are held independently onto this plate, separated by a turnbuckle, to allow toe adjustment of the rear wheels. Spring rate is 225 F/260 R using coilover set-up and Koni shocks.
Wheels & Tires:

17 X 11 Billet Specialties wheels with 315/35R17 tires an all four corners (DOT set-up).


Body:
Body is a home-made fiberglass creation painted in a GM Tahoe blue w/ Wimbleton white stripes
Interior:

Fabricated out of fiberglass from a once fully gutted race interior.


1971 Datsun 240Z that became a divorce recovery project. After dropping the SBF engine into the car, I found that the high...

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Poor man's LS1 ITB

I want to share a project in which I've fabricated a fairly economic alternative to the hugely expensive aftermarket ITB hardware for the LS series motors.

Economic aftermarket ITB options for this motor will run about $3600 and up for hardware alone (does not include electronic controls) and is usually designed for under-hood clearances (short, or laid on their sides). So I looked for a cheap alternative that would provide the traditional upright-runner appearance (for my specific application).

The parts I started with are:

Intake Manifold - Edelbrock Pro-Flow XT intake manifold. This is an 8-runner common plenum intake that is very tall and resembles an EFI version of a tunnel ram. Below is a couple of photos of the intake on the motor. The lower photo is a concept drawing of what I envision when this project is finished.

screenshot245_400

screenshot279_400 

screenshot247_400

ITBs - Chrysler LHS throttle bodies. The 3.5L motor has two 48mm throttle bodies manufactured by Holley that are fairly straight-forward in that they lack most of the "garbage" that a typical manufacturer's throttle body contains. The box of throttle bodies bellow cost about $200 at the local pick-n-pull.

screenshot277_400

screenshot278_400

Materials to Put it All Together - various aluminum plates, screws, bolts, shaft couplers, etc.

Cost Comparison - With ITBs mounted, connected, and on the motor (no linkage thus far, total cost is less that $800 as compared to $2600 for comparable aftermarket set-up.

 

Let's get started!

First thing that had to be done was to modify the cheaper $400 Edelbrock intake (brand new, so this took some courage to put it on the table saw and start cutting it into pieces) to accept ITBs. This was done by cutting the intake in half through the center of the plenum. This way, all the runners were still rigidly held in place both at the base and at the top of the runners: 

screenshot261_400

Then I cut a wedge out of each runner near the base so as to make the runners more vertical and simultaniously separate the left and right banks from each other:

screenshot262_400 

Once the banks were straightened out, they were welded up and the top was then cut off the runners exposing each individual runner:

screenshot274_400

Next a top mounting plate was welded over each runner. The plate then allows an adapter plate (for any variety of Weber based, or ITB hardware to be mounted) to be bolted onto the left/right banks of runners:

screenshot275_400

The Adapter plate had to be machined (drill press and some careful measurements) to transition the round ITB ports to the semi-rectangular LS1 intake ports. This was 3/4" aluminum plate that had the OEM Chrysler throttle body studs screwed into the plate to help index/align each ITB to their respective holes:

 screenshot276_400

screenshot280_400

The ITB adapter plate is then bolted onto the runner banks:

screenshot259_400

screenshot260_400

Shaft couplers are used to connect the individual ITBs. These came from McMaster-Carr. The linkage to active the shafts was fabricated for a previous Weber 48 IDA set-up, but never used:

 03a4baa00dfbe751b6d74541a9d1d317

Tuning stacks are then fabricated to provide performance as well as aesthetic improvements in order for this induction system resemble what was used in the original M8B McLaren CanAm car:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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events here
  • Exterior
  • Building the Rear Panels
  • Interior
  • Engine and Engine Bay
  • Swapping the 289 for a 383
  • Transmission and Driveshaft
  • Differential Mount (Front)
  • Porsche Axles
  • Suspension
  • Brakes
  • Wheels

In the Beginning

The race car with the OEM tail lights and rear panel.

In the Beginning

The fuel cell and exhaust pipes visible from under the rear valance panel (ugg).

Concepts

Using the computer I looked at various ideas I wanted to employ in changing the rear's appearance.

Concepts

Ths concept was the one I chose. Now to see if I could make the real thing look like the computer image. This is the modified image of the OEM shot two images back.

Fiberglass work

Work began by removing all the tail light parts and panels, and making a cardboard template.

Fiberglass work

Then cut out the opening for the recessed Ford truck tail lights.

Fiberglass work

Install the tail lights into the template to make sure this is what I want to do.

Fiberglass work

Cut foam for a fiberglass mold. This piece will eventually hold the Ford tail light into place in a recessed pocket in the tail light panel

Fiberglass work

I then laid the template on some 1/8" aluminum. I use aluminum for fiberglass molds because the glass will pop off the aluminum fairly easily when it kicks. The smooth aluminum finish shortens the finishing process on the fiberglass finish as well.

Fiberglass work

Foam molds representing the tail lights are placed onto the aluminum sheet.

Fiberglass work

Foam molds representing the tail lights are placed onto the aluminum sheet. Notice the aluminum is propped up so that it's curve will match the curve of the rear of the Z car panel.

Fiberglass work

An then the mat is ready to lay over the foam and aluminum.

Fiberglass work

Fiberglass is laid

Fiberglass work

Once the fiberglass has hardened, I popped it off the aluminum, turned it over, and now I have a rough piece of the tail light panel.

Fiberglass work

Fiberglass panel is trimmed to fit in the OEM recess.

Fiberglass work

An aluminum box is fabricated for making the license plate recess.

Fiberglass work

The license plate recess is laid, hardened and bonded onto the the tail light panel.

Fiberglass work

Mounting stubs are bonded onto the back side of the tail light panel. These have threaded holes in them and are used to attach the panel to the car using the OEM mounting points.

Fiberglass work

Tail light panel (with license plate recess) is attached to the car with the tail lights installed.

Fiberglass work

Side view of the panel.

Fiberglass work

A Buick LaSabre tail light lense is cut up and used as a secondary cover over the Ford tail lights to give the tail lights an even prismatic appearance. The greatly enhanced the appearance of the Ford truck tail lights.

Fiberglass work

A splitter was fabricated so that the tail lights would have a wider, lower appearance, and to also "mask" the Ford heritage.

Fiberglass work

All of the individual tail light panel pieces laid out for viewing.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

Now to cover the ugly fuel cell, battery box, and exhaust pipes from view.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

Once again, aluminum sheet was used as a mold. The piece was cut to shape, and then hammered into the correct curves.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

This is the mat (2 oz) that I used to cover the aluminum.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

While the glass was still wet and soft, I propped it into place with some old lacquer thinner cans.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

Once the glass kicked, I removed it, popped it off the aluminum, and it is ready to finish

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

The sanded and primed lower panel. This panel is held on by six sheet metal screws and two 1/4" bolts.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

Lower panel installed onto the rear bottom of the car. The exhaust cut-outs are next. I cut tow holes in the rear panel which will be where the exhaust will exit.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

1/8" aluminum rings were cut out and hammered into the correct compound curves that match the rear panel's shape.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

Side view of the fabricated exhaust outlet rings.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

When the exhaust was later welded in, I installed 4" SS exhaust tips.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

The rear panel needed to allow some air venting to keep the fuel pump cool, and allow air past the differential. I started with an Acura front grill as a means for creating a rear vent.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

The grill was cut up into a piece I could use

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

And then a fiberglass frame was fabricated to hold the newly modified Acura grill.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

This shows the grill and the fiberglass frame.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

Then I installed the grill onto the frame using the factory screws.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

Then I installed the grill onto the frame using the factory screws.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

Then I cut out an opening in the OEM rear panel for the grill frame.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

I inserted the frame, and welded some supporting brackets behind it. The frame is held in place with two 1/4" screws.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

The panel, and exhaust is comlete.

Lower panel for the Fuel Cell

Everything assembled and primed at this point.

 
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Comments:
semel1
01-20-2011 11:00 PM
very cool garage. The work you have done is amazing
Truxx1956
08-11-2010 7:55 PM
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You da man!!!!!!
Wicked58
01-10-2010 2:56 PM
wow, just amazing! Congratulations!
ROLLINGCOUNTRY
08-30-2008 11:33 PM
AWESOME JUST FLAT OUT AWESOME..LOTS AND LOTS OF HOURS BUT TRUE ART MY FRIEND......COOKIE
Grampa131
07-31-2008 11:47 AM
Beutiful Z........
falconizer_62
07-10-2008 12:43 PM
amazing work! That blue Z is phenomenal. you are a true craftsman.
bandit
02-17-2008 11:20 AM
VERY COOL!!! I enjoyed viewing your build progress, and the car looks very sharp!
pikesan
12-26-2007 2:10 PM
The work you've done is AMAZING!! Thanks for making one of the best garages at MyRideisMe!
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